Goldeneye - An Island Retreat

Looking out of the window of the taxi that was taking us from Negril to Oracabessa, St Mary, Jamaica at 5.15 in the morning I wondered how I was going to control the excitement galloping through my veins at the overwhelming thought of staying in Ian Flemings house.

Ian Fleming's Goldeneye - Exterior

I drifted back to a few months earlier...

‘As you are our best man we were wondering if you and your good lady would like to come with us on our honeymoon.’ Enquired Jack

‘Oh yea?’ I replied with a bemused look, ‘where are you thinking about going?’

‘Jamaica!’

That stirred me! I raised my eyes, my thought process in overdrive. I stared at my friends.

‘Mmmm,’ I nodded as I spoke, ‘I’m shaken AND stirred!’

‘What do you say?’ said Susan.

‘Could be a golden opportunity’ I replied.

‘Well?’

‘mmm, we might make a slight detour!’

‘Where to?’

‘Goldeneye!’

‘Golden where?’ choked Jack.

‘A man once loved there…………..’

‘Who?’ quizzed Susan.

‘Trust me, an author… we’re coming!’

‘It’s a deal!’

That was in February 2004.

As we drove along the Jamaican equivalent of the M6 complete with all its craters - our Taxi driver, Trees, asked what Goldeneye was and how we would recognise it. To be quite frank none of us truly knew what to expect, least of all Jack and Susan. I knew the significance of the property and had seen images on the internet but my wife, Maureen, the original anti Bond had only taken notice of the room rates and was still being treated for shock.

Trespassers Will Be Eaten

We passed the site, at Falmouth, where Roger Moore walked over the crocodiles in Live and Let Die – Trespassers WILL be eaten! We passed through Ocho Rios, we found Oracabessa but we could not find Goldeneye. Trees asked a passer bye - she did not know. (We later learnt that the locals call it the Racecourse) I phoned reception and they guided us in. Two worn stone tablets about 10cm by 30cm inscribed with the word Goldeneye were the only items to identify the place. We were escorted between the old gate posts and accompanied through the tropical gardens by a very well mannered security guard with a gentleness only reserved for a new born baby.

It was 08.45am and we had arrived at the Holy Grail...

Duncan & his Wife in front of Goldeneye

Goldeneye

With a reception party waiting for us we said our goodbyes to Trees for the next few days. Our cases were taken to the main house whilst we were led through the tropical gardens down to the gazebo for breakfast. As we walked past African Tulips, Barringtonia, Mangos and numerous tropical fruits time slowed and an overwhelming sense of awe descended over us - only the sound of parakeets and our feet pressing on the path of stone chippings broke the silence of our wonderment. The views overlooking the Caribbean and the exclusive Low Cay beach were stunning, we could see the Moonraker bar and James Bond Beach in the distance. After breakfast, and whilst the main house was being prepared, we were taken on a ride in a glass bottom boat to capture a closer look at that distance, investigate the lagoon and admire the reef below us. On our return we did some sun bathing on the Low Cay Beach being expertly quenched with timely refreshments.

The lush interior of Goldeneye

At around 1pm we were taken up to Ian Fleming’s house, and introduced to Jenny Wood, the general manager, with her silk and tranquil voice. She informed us that, after Fleming’s death on August 12th 1964, the property fell into a state of disrepair but remained in the family estate until Bob Marley almost purchased it in 1976 - having decided it was too posh for him it was not until the following year that the present owner, Chris Blackwell, bought it. Since then he has gradually upgraded and added to the site which now includes five air-conditioned private seaside villas featuring one, two and three bedrooms each with four poster, garden bath and shower, kitchenette, TV room and veranda. No words can convey our complete pleasure as we viewed the rooms, each with its own sensuous colour scheme, in breathtaking silence. I wondered how many guests had experienced the same hypnotic emotions that we were feeling.

A luxury four poster bed at Goldeneye

The main bedroom contained Ian Fleming’s original writing desk and the most enormous four post bed you could imagine looking out to sea. A lounge and dining area with a further writing desk, which contained items of Ian Fleming memorabilia, along with huge seating - but easily large enough to put the Aston, Lotus, BMW and Chitty in with space to spare! Devoid of glass with only large sweeping wooden shutters for protection it eased you into the outdoors with a tranquil step back to nature. The Manicured gardens, walk in swimming pool, well stocked bar and private cinema overlooked our private beach.

Each evening we had our dinner in front of the house served by Clayton. A gentleman and a gentle man, whose diplomacy and conversational prowess were exemplary. The food was nothing less than you would expect! Just about as good as you can get in such a relaxed environment! Fresh lobster, steak, lamb - you name it – you could have it - a gourmet paradise. When all was quiet at the twilight of the day the staff closed the house down and we retired to serenity.

Pierce Brosnan's Julie Mango in the Goldeneye Grounds

Each morning staff opened up the house whilst a chef arrived to make breakfast at the time of our choosing and in the manner we wanted. One afternoon we took a leisurely walk through the grounds and gazed at the plaques next to the trees. A tradition, started by Sir Anthony Eden in 1956 shortly after the Sues crisis, of guests planting a tree in aid of the Island Sport Trust, that still continues today and has been taken up by, Harrison Ford, Harry Belafonte, Quincy Jones, Jim Carrey, Kate Moss, Dennis Hopper, Martha Stewart, Fatboy Slim, Johnny Depp, James Woods, Princess Margaret, Michael Caine, Marianne Faithfull, Yoko Ono and one Pierce Brosnan amongst many!

We snorkelled, we swam, we jet skied, we laughed, we talked, we listened, we ate, we drank – we lived in heaven and forgot that anything or anyone else existed.

Duncan at Ian Fleming's Desk in Goldeneye

I sat at Ian Flemings desk, THE Ian Flemings desk and contemplated if, in his wildest dreams, he could ever have imagined, that, reportedly, half the words population would see, hear or read about James Bond. Could the real James Bond, author of Birds of the West Indies ever have realised he would be the namesake for one of the most famous men on earth? It is no wonder that this former overgrown donkey racecourse set in fifteen acres with its own secluded coral beach on the northern coast of Jamaica was acquired by Commander Ian Fleming.

What more can I say to any Bond fan or anyone else contemplating a visit?

Forget the cost, raid the piggy bank, mortgage the house and make the Bond, take the paradise express…

To Goldeneye!

Take a Trip...

For more information on rates and future developments go to http://www.islandoutpost.com for reservations go to reservations@islandoutpost.com
Phone Jamaica (876) 9753620

---