ROYALE Filmwear Mr. White (Altaussee) Jacket

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Comments

  • CommandantCommandant Posts: 1,367MI6 Agent
    Dan, apparently there are no stitches on the bottom of the jacket. Can you adapt the prototype accordingly ? many thanks !

    Screenshot_2016_04_21_09_09_54.jpg
  • JTMJTM Posts: 3,027MI6 Agent
    Commandant wrote:
    Dan, apparently there are no stitches on the bottom of the jacket. Can you adapt the prototype accordingly ? many thanks !

    Screenshot_2016_04_21_09_09_54.jpg

    And no stitches on the end of the sleeves it seems...but I think production is past the stage where changes can be made seeing as apparently it's only few weeks from release?
  • CommandantCommandant Posts: 1,367MI6 Agent
    Also half stitches on the shoulders...
    Don't know if these details can be taken into account...
    Screenshot_2016_04_27_21_51_44.jpg
  • JTMJTM Posts: 3,027MI6 Agent
    Commandant wrote:
    Also half stitches on the shoulders...
    Don't know if these details can be taken into account...
    Screenshot_2016_04_27_21_51_44.jpg

    I think half stitches like that are probably a bit too intricate to include in the replica.

    Surely hiding the stitches on the waist and the end of the sleeves is possible though, if it's not too late for changes like that?
  • CommandantCommandant Posts: 1,367MI6 Agent
    These are small details and you are right, it may be a bit late for these changes -{
  • SilverFingerSilverFinger Brisbane, AustraliaPosts: 280MI6 Agent
    Hi Guys,

    I’d like to address the seam on the waistband and cuffs. As you will probably know, I started this jacket 5 months ago and during that process I’m working with the best information I can find. From conception and redesign it’s one giant headache... there are no two ways about it. Inevitably, not every detail will be perfect. Specifically, in regards to these seams I’d like to share why we have done, what we have done. From the images I was working from I wasn’t 100% sure if there were seams on the cuffs, but from what I could see there appeared to be seams there, the fabric pulled as if there were seams as there should be. In reality I knew there had to be some form of stitching at the cuff and at the waistband. I believed I could see it at the cuff, but was unsure at the waistband. The problem arises with assembly, because there MUST be some sort of seam at the waistband. I say this because, unlike a suit jacket which doesn’t have a seam here, we are dealing with a much heavier material, a plush cashmere. The reason this is important is because it doesn’t crease as a lighter suit fabric would, allowing you to ‘get away’ without having such a seam. There must be some sort of seam in order to keep the bottom of the jacket in check, otherwise you would have something very undefined at the bottom of the waistband, as mentioned the fabric won’t crease like a suit jacket which appears to be finished in the same seamless way.

    So, naturally the next question is, well how has Dior done it? To which I respond ‘great question!’ I was very much on the fence with this detail. If the seam was there it was put there with a low tension on the sewing machine so as not to indent the fabric, which would make it less detectable OR there is no seam. As it turns out, it’s the latter. Trying to replicate something at times can be brutal... So what the h*ll has Dior done down there?? Again, great question, here’s my opinion and why it may have not been possible even with that detail now clearly shown. I believe there is some stitching holding the waistband in place, but it’s a hand-stitched pick-stitching not unlike you may find on a suit lapel. Of course I may be very wrong about that, but short of pulling apart a Dior to investigate what exactly they have done internally it will remain undetected externally. The pick-stitching would be spaced probably every half inch and be very gently tensioned so as not to create any pulling of the fabric. There MUST be stitching down there to hold the band in place... I didn’t get that far as I believed I could see a seam on the cuff and by extension the waistband as they always match.

    The good news is... If this is the sort of thing that’s a deal-breaker for you, it could be fixed. We’re 5 long months into this jacket, the product is the product, but in light of the new information, I believe it could be changed easily enough. Will I be doing that? No, sorry. I’ve lost enough hair over this one.

    What to do? If it is something that you MUST change, allow me to elaborate. I believe you could get away with pick-stitching on the band and cuffs. I also believe that because the fabric is very plush a seam that is removed would disappear with a few brushes over the fabric, and the previous seam would be undetectable. So, the first thing would be to have a capable seamstress/tailor to add pick-stitching around the waistband and cuff. And the second measure would be to unpick the machine stitching. Again, even with the new information at hand I’m not sure how we would have done it any differently with this particular fabric. Of course I’d love to peek inside the inner working of the Dior to understand exactly what they have done, but I can almost sense the cringing from you who have read this far at the idea of pulling apart a jacket with a $5800 price tag. I don’t doubt that my manufacture could have pulled this off, but as it stands this has already been a tough jacket to bring in at the quoted price. Most people will probably overlook this small detail, but for those who have an unwavering eye for detail I do hope I have offered a possible solution with a very small but time consuming alteration.

    I hope this sheds some light on the thought process and why sometimes even when you have a very specific design element it may not always be achievable within a certain budget.

    I’m very proud of this jacket, I believe it will be our best yet.

    -{

    Dan.
    sales@royalefilmwear.com / subscribe@royalefilmwear.com (To join the notification list and be advised of new releases)
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  • JTMJTM Posts: 3,027MI6 Agent
    For a replica jacket that is priced at less than 5% of the original's cost, you have done an incredible job designing this Dan! It's completely understandable that not everything could be replicated exactly, but reading the above, it seems like you've made every possible effort to do so, so thank you very much. You're attention to detail in regards to this is amazing and i'm sure everyone will be able to experience and enjoy that when they receive their jackets.
  • Enjoying DeathEnjoying Death Toronto, ON CANADAPosts: 1,231MI6 Agent
    JTM wrote:
    For a replica jacket that is priced at less than 5% of the original's cost, you have done an incredible job designing this Dan! It's completely understandable that not everything could be replicated exactly, but reading the above, it seems like you've made every possible effort to do so, so thank you very much. You're attention to detail in regards to this is amazing and i'm sure everyone will be able to experience and enjoy that when they receive their jackets.

    Agreed. I think your jacket looks incredible Dan and I will be purchasing one as soon as they are available. Make sure to hold a XL for me!
    Pussy Galore: “My name is Pussy Galore.”
    Bond: “I must be dreaming.”
  • NikoNiko Posts: 73MI6 Agent
    From the previous jackets I've purchased from you Dan i know that you do your very best to get detail and quality in your products and for the pirice you're aiming to do this jacket for I'm hoping I'm lucky enough to be able to get one of these as is.

    As always sterling work Dan.
  • CommandantCommandant Posts: 1,367MI6 Agent
    Thank you Dan for taking the time to answer us.
    These are small details...sorry for raising them.
    You have done an incredible job.
    Love the jacket as it is!
  • SilverFingerSilverFinger Brisbane, AustraliaPosts: 280MI6 Agent
    No problem sir, ;)

    We're all about screen accuracy, so of course it's important. I just felt it was equally important to address the issue as it was one of the design elements I did struggle with identifying. You were very right to have mentioned it. I will most likely be the test pilot with my own jacket and make the alteration I've suggested. I am expecting it to take a while, stitching it by hand, but I would like to show the results before anyone else rushes out to do it. Worse case scenario is I put the seam back there with the machine if it does go a bit pear-shaped. I'll take a few photos with a small how-to. Wherever possible, I'm here to help.

    -{

    Dan.
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  • 007JBDCMWR007JBDCMWR Posts: 2,516MI6 Agent
    No problem sir, ;)

    We're all about screen accuracy, so of course it's important. I just felt it was equally important to address the issue as it was one of the design elements I did struggle with identifying. You were very right to have mentioned it. I will most likely be the test pilot with my own jacket and make the alteration I've suggested. I am expecting it to take a while, stitching it by hand, but I would like to show the results before anyone else rushes out to do it. Worse case scenario is I put the seam back there with the machine if it does go a bit pear-shaped. I'll take a few photos with a small how-to. Wherever possible, I'm here to help.

    -{

    Dan.

    Dan

    Any presale advice / thoughts on sizing to help us all get the right one first time?
    Skewered, one sympathises...

    1. CR. 2. TSWLM. 3. LTK. 4. GF. 5. SF.
  • SilverFingerSilverFinger Brisbane, AustraliaPosts: 280MI6 Agent
    On sizing, I'm purposefully holding off on that until I have the final product to work from. The basic table on the storefront is the tentative sizing, but the full sizing table will go out to those who've emaied me and expressed interest a couple of days before they officially list. I will be taking as much care as I can to get the sizing advice right on this one as there were some sizing issues with the Solden. It's in everyones interest to get it right the first time. Hopefully, everyone interested should have a couple of days to decide which size they will be before the second email goes out for the official listing.

    Just on that note guys. I do get quite a few emails asking to put down deposits on jackets. The reason I don't do things that way is because I firstly want to be happy with the product before I accept any money whatsoever, but mostly because ROYALE Filmwear is still more of an interest for me than anything. Sure, I make a few dollars out of it, but ultimately I want these clothes for myself too. I still work a day job like most people and for that reason I do try to keep it very simple and easy to manage for myself. When the jackets are available, those who have expressed interest will have an equal opportunity of purchase. Perhaps one day I'll do it differently, but I'd still want to be happy with the product first, so we're back to square one on that issue. There has been a lot of interest in these last two jackets, so I certainly appreciate and understand wanting to put down a deposit. I hope my position makes sense? I really appreciate the trust you guys have in me to get it right, thanks a bunch for that, we will continue to do our best. This year my intentions are to do a reissue of all previous jackets during the course of the year as there is enough interest. This may be optimistic... but this is the planned order of jackets this year.

    After the Altaussee...
    1. SPECTRE Solden
    2. QoS Harrington
    3. QoS Haiti jacket
    4. SKYFALL Pea Coat for Christmas???

    Let me know your thoughts and indeed email me directly if you are interested in any of those jackets. It is always important to email me you approximate chest size eg; 42US, which helps us produce enough in the correct sizes to avoid disappointment.

    Well it's Saturday night here gents and I'm stepping out, have a great weekend and I'll talk with you soon!!

    -{

    Dan.
    sales@royalefilmwear.com / subscribe@royalefilmwear.com (To join the notification list and be advised of new releases)
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  • JTMJTM Posts: 3,027MI6 Agent
    You really go above and beyond, thanks mate -{

    That future release plan is looking good! I'm definitely keen to pick up the Harrington and the Haiti! 42" chest.
  • canoe2canoe2 Posts: 2,007MI6 Agent
    On sizing, I'm purposefully holding off on that until I have the final product to work from. The basic table on the storefront is the tentative sizing, but the full sizing table will go out to those who've emaied me and expressed interest a couple of days before they officially list. I will be taking as much care as I can to get the sizing advice right on this one as there were some sizing issues with the Solden. It's in everyones interest to get it right the first time. Hopefully, everyone interested should have a couple of days to decide which size they will be before the second email goes out for the official listing.

    Just on that note guys. I do get quite a few emails asking to put down deposits on jackets. The reason I don't do things that way is because I firstly want to be happy with the product before I accept any money whatsoever, but mostly because ROYALE Filmwear is still more of an interest for me than anything. Sure, I make a few dollars out of it, but ultimately I want these clothes for myself too. I still work a day job like most people and for that reason I do try to keep it very simple and easy to manage for myself. When the jackets are available, those who have expressed interest will have an equal opportunity of purchase. Perhaps one day I'll do it differently, but I'd still want to be happy with the product first, so we're back to square one on that issue. There has been a lot of interest in these last two jackets, so I certainly appreciate and understand wanting to put down a deposit. I hope my position makes sense? I really appreciate the trust you guys have in me to get it right, thanks a bunch for that, we will continue to do our best. This year my intentions are to do a reissue of all previous jackets during the course of the year as there is enough interest. This may be optimistic... but this is the planned order of jackets this year.

    After the Altaussee...
    1. SPECTRE Solden
    2. QoS Harrington
    3. QoS Haiti jacket
    4. SKYFALL Pea Coat for Christmas???

    Let me know your thoughts and indeed email me directly if you are interested in any of those jackets. It is always important to email me you approximate chest size eg; 42US, which helps us produce enough in the correct sizes to avoid disappointment.

    Well it's Saturday night here gents and I'm stepping out, have a great weekend and I'll talk with you soon!!

    -{

    Dan.

    Hi Dan!
    Regarding your release schedule, I don't know if some data from the iconic alternatives site will help:

    The post on the TF Harrington was published on Dec 2, 2015 and has received 1,880 views
    The post on the Dior jacket was published on Dec 3, 2015 and has received 1,747 views
    The post on the Solden jacket was published on Jan 10, 2016 and has received 1,638 views

    So they're all pretty close in terms of views, but traffic to the Harrington post has been going up again (about 275 views in April), while traffic to the Solden and Dior posts has dropped (76 views and 73 views in April).

    Based on that, if it were me I would do the re-release of the Harrington first, and then focus on the Solden for the fall. NOT trying to tell you how to run your great company (and I am sure there are a lot of other factors that go into the production decisions), but I hope some info about what people are looking at online helps a little!
  • SilverFingerSilverFinger Brisbane, AustraliaPosts: 280MI6 Agent
    Hi Dan!
    Regarding your release schedule, I don't know if some data from the iconic alternatives site will help:

    The post on the TF Harrington was published on Dec 2, 2015 and has received 1,880 views
    The post on the Dior jacket was published on Dec 3, 2015 and has received 1,747 views
    The post on the Solden jacket was published on Jan 10, 2016 and has received 1,638 views

    So they're all pretty close in terms of views, but traffic to the Harrington post has been going up again (about 275 views in April), while traffic to the Solden and Dior posts has dropped (76 views and 73 views in April).

    Based on that, if it were me I would do the re-release of the Harrington first, and then focus on the Solden for the fall. NOT trying to tell you how to run your great company (and I am sure there are a lot of other factors that go into the production decisions), but I hope some info about what people are looking at online helps a little!

    Thank you very much for sharing those numbers... I completely agree, the harrington was going to be up next after the Altaussee, but after the Solden a couple of things changed that. As many know the Solden sold out in around 72hrs which actually caught me a bit by surprise... consequently a heap of people who missed out on that one were disappointed. So although these jackets are a bit out of Whack in terms of seasons, I believe it is the right thing to do to offer the Solden again very soon for all those who recently missed out.

    The second thing is... we are producing a new harrington sample. I recently had the pleasure of meeting a local Brisbane customer called Nick. Lovely young man, he popped in and I showed him the ROYALE collection... (having first put away the sewing machine!!) I was showing Nick a couple of areas on the harrington where I wanted to improve on some stitiching detail among other things. I could tell that he thought I was a little OCD about it lol, but he was nice enough not to say. :) I'm also looking to upgrade the zipper on the harrington and create narrower piping on the pockets.

    Needless to say there are a few more minor changes, all very small stuff, but enough changes for me to want to go back and produce another harrington sample as it has been some time since we did that last run and I don't want to chance NOT getting it right. This will be the 5th production of harringtons and unquestionably the best, having spent a lot of time on these small design tweaks.

    The harrington sample will take time and we will likely have to batch dye the cotton twill specially as that navy is so, so dark. The Solden is getting a few minor improvements too, but is otherwise ready to go. And rather surprisingly the Haiti is gaining momentum via email and is neck and neck in popularity with the pea coat, I will be focusing on the Haiti's small improvements sometime soon, and going to a fresh sample with it too, to ensure everyone is on the same page for final design.

    I can't be exact on the months these will roll out, but that's the approximate timeline... it will certainly be the year to pick up these jackets if you've always wanted them. I'm not sure what next year holds, but there's a plan until Christmas...

    :D

    Dan.
    sales@royalefilmwear.com / subscribe@royalefilmwear.com (To join the notification list and be advised of new releases)
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  • SilverFingerSilverFinger Brisbane, AustraliaPosts: 280MI6 Agent
    This is the Iconic Alternatives website mentioned above, a really nice Bond alternatives site guys check it out.

    http://www.iconicalternatives.com/2015/12/02/tom-ford-harrington-jacket-quatum-of-solace/

    -{

    Dan.
    sales@royalefilmwear.com / subscribe@royalefilmwear.com (To join the notification list and be advised of new releases)
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  • esk1020esk1020 Posts: 48MI6 Agent
    Not sure if this was discussed previously, but any thoughts about doing a coat inspired by the Barbour Skyfall jacket?
    This is the Iconic Alternatives website mentioned above, a really nice Bond alternatives site guys check it out.

    http://www.iconicalternatives.com/2015/12/02/tom-ford-harrington-jacket-quatum-of-solace/

    -{

    Dan.
  • JTMJTM Posts: 3,027MI6 Agent
    esk1020 wrote:
    Not sure if this was discussed previously, but any thoughts about doing a coat inspired by the Barbour Skyfall jacket?

    Looking at Dan's above release schedule for 2016, I think he'll be way too busy to introduce a new jacket. Magnoli does a MTM Barbour replica though.
  • welshboy78welshboy78 Posts: 10,292MI6 Agent
    Didn't Dan already do a Barbour????

    Could be wrong but though he did - however not as in demand as his other jackets as the Barbour reissued thousands of times
    Instagram - bondclothes007
  • Westward_DriftWestward_Drift Posts: 3,085MI6 Agent
    welshboy78 wrote:
    Didn't Dan already do a Barbour????

    Could be wrong but though he did - however not as in demand as his other jackets as the Barbour reissued thousands of times

    As I recall he did a Barbour jacket under the "Solace" moniker after the first try of the Harringtons. Weren't there issues with the wax or the color?
  • SilverFingerSilverFinger Brisbane, AustraliaPosts: 280MI6 Agent
    welshboy78 wrote:
    Didn't Dan already do a Barbour????

    Could be wrong but though he did - however not as in demand as his other jackets as the Barbour reissued thousands of times

    As I recall he did a Barbour jacket under the "Solace" moniker after the first try of the Harringtons. Weren't there issues with the wax or the color?

    Yes, we did do a skyfall lodge jacket. As a direct result of that experience, I didn't do another jacket for 12 months. That was with a different manufacturer. When I said a few posts back that producing a replica can be brutal, I was refering to that experience. The jacket itself in terms of design I was very pleased with, I think we managed to get that right, the problem was the fabric. Because it's such a specialised fabric, the initial sample wasn't produced in the correct fabric (as it was only a design sample) As far as I was concerned I approved the sample with the understanding (and clear instruction) that the production would be from the specially treated waxed cotton. Long story short, we got the sample fabric... disaster $$$. A handful of these jackets were sold for less than cost and I took it upon myself to 'fix' a handful also which was a very tedious process.

    The fabric colour without the wax treatment was much lighter than the treated wax fabric, the wax almost giving it a 'wet' look darkening the colour. (Instead of being coated in wax the fabric had a PVC coating which had to be chemically removed, before wax could be applied) Like I said, brutal. :(

    ...On the flip slide, that was done before the release of the Barbour Commander Dept B. jacket, which was the cheaper re-release from Barbour. After the release of that jacket it no longer made sense to even consider another replica as that beautiful original was then available for around $400. After this jacket, I regrouped for 12 months, then went back to my original manufacturer and we did the V1 ROYALE harrington.

    I believe those who purchased a treated waxed jacket were happy with their purchase, they were made aware of the production issue via this forum at the time. I had rather hoped everyone had forgotten about it lol... That was an expensive and painful experience for me especially after so much time and effort went into the redesign. I was just looking for a photo to post of the treated jacket as I was very pleased with it once it was 'fixed', but it seems I've deleted that folder, probably because I will never do that jacket again. Many lessons were learned from this experience and being a few years ago now I had blocked it out... haha. But hey, we did have a go at it and through a miscommunication that's what happened. (Never again)

    Thankfully the Barbour Commander Dept. B (Olive), and Magnoli have your back on that one.

    (It is sold out at the moment)
    http://www.endclothing.com/au/catalog/product/view/id/117945/s/barbour-department-b-skyfall-commander-jacket/category/38/
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  • Dan DeltsDan Delts Posts: 57MI6 Agent
    Dan, I emailed you - you, i didnt realise you were in Australia. Im in Melbourne - put me down for both the Harrington and the Solden, after today's wind in Melbourne...we need these before June Thanks :) lol.
  • MFisherMFisher Posts: 745MI6 Agent
    ORDERED !!!! So very excited to get this in.. although I will have to wait just a bit to wear it ! (Not exactly the jacket for summer in the south :)) ) But as this was my favorite jacket from SPECTRE I am extremely appreciative of your efforts Daniel.. and to this who assisted with getting the details correct on this (Mantis).. You guys make this hobby attainable for those on a limited budget ! Thanks to both of you in particular and to anyone else who helped make this happen..
  • JTMJTM Posts: 3,027MI6 Agent
    And ordered!! Couldn't be happier about how the jacket turned out, can't wait to get my hands on it! Dan, I can't thank you enough -{
  • The_Black_007The_Black_007 Posts: 94MI6 Agent
    Just placed my order..... Been sat by my laptop all afternoon hitting refresh LoooL! Very pleased and lucky to secure one as I know how gutted people were when the Solden jacket sold out so quickly (managed to get one of those as well....). Looking forward to receiving it.
    BOND - "I'd say it's a 30-year-old fine indifferently blended Sir...with an overdose of bon bois."
    M - "Colonel Smithers is giving the lecture 007!"
  • CommandantCommandant Posts: 1,367MI6 Agent
    Also ordered.
    Just by curiosity did you all size up?
  • JTMJTM Posts: 3,027MI6 Agent
    Commandant wrote:
    Also ordered.
    Just by curiosity did you all size up?

    I'm a 42" chest, 6'1" and 34" waist and I stuck with large, my usual size. I have faith that that decision won't come back and bite me.
  • SadsSads Posts: 28MI6 Agent
    Commandant wrote:
    Also ordered.
    Just by curiosity did you all size up?

    Also ordered,

    Went with Medium as per the size chart. Should i have sized up? must of missed that, thought the sizes were correct this time,Large solden fits perfect, What size did you go with?
  • The Bond ExperienceThe Bond Experience Newtown, PAPosts: 5,490Quartermasters
    Vlog review coming next week!!! And agree with all the above that Daniel knocked it out of the park on this one....
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