The Billy Reid Peacoat is a GO!

13334353638

Comments

  • cmdr_bongcmdr_bong AustraliaPosts: 195MI6 Agent
    BOOM! and just like that my query is solved!

    Thanks heaps! You guys are awesome!

    I lost out on the ebay listing by mere minutes! It went for USD$100 :#

    Lastly can anyone comment on the sizing of the Astor? Do you need to size down as Daniel Z postulate on his video?
  • Westward_DriftWestward_Drift Posts: 2,571MI6 Agent
    cmdr_bong wrote:
    BOOM! and just like that my query is solved!

    Thanks heaps! You guys are awesome!

    I lost out on the ebay listing by mere minutes! It went for USD$100 :#

    Lastly can anyone comment on the sizing of the Astor? Do you need to size down as Daniel Z postulate on his video?

    Billy Reid sizing...there's a can of worms.

    I've found it imperative to get the actual dimensions of any Billy Reid coat. Sizing may change from year to year and even between colors. I usually wear a large, but I've had an XL Astor from 5 years ago that ran small, a cotton double breasted Bouwerie in Medium that runs a little large, a Large Conecuh in Brown that is true to size while the Khaki Conecuh ran a full size smaller.

    My Billy Reid Walking Coat (The Governor's coat from The Walking Dead) is true to size, but very slim with a chest of only 21.5 inches.

    Only $100 for an Astor? Sorry you missed it.
  • cmdr_bongcmdr_bong AustraliaPosts: 195MI6 Agent
    Oh bloody hell! Feels like the Belstaff sizing quagmire all over again! :s
    Only $100 for an Astor? Sorry you missed it.

    Yeah tell me about it! I made a best offer, it got declined, and then it got snapped up. Moral of this story, don't be stingy on an already good deal.
  • MikeG77MikeG77 Posts: 1,590MI6 Agent
    cmdr_bong wrote:
    Oh bloody hell! Feels like the Belstaff sizing quagmire all over again! :s
    Only $100 for an Astor? Sorry you missed it.

    Yeah tell me about it! I made a best offer, it got declined, and then it got snapped up. Moral of this story, don't be stingy on an already good deal.

    Did they at least make a counter offer?
    I know where you keep your gun!
  • cmdr_bongcmdr_bong AustraliaPosts: 195MI6 Agent
    Nah. Was gonna purchase it at the BIN price but "poof!" It was sold. Absolutely spewing.
  • The Bond ExperienceThe Bond Experience Newtown, PAPosts: 5,477Quartermasters
    The Astor is cut boxier and looser than the PeaCoat, so trust me when I say size down...I was swimming in a medium.
    cmdr_bong wrote:
    Nah. Was gonna purchase it at the BIN price but "poof!" It was sold. Absolutely spewing.
  • cmdr_bongcmdr_bong AustraliaPosts: 195MI6 Agent
    The Mantis wrote:
    The Astor is cut boxier and looser than the PeaCoat, so trust me when I say size down...I was swimming in a medium.

    Hey Thanks David! Now I don't feel so bad about losing out on a Medium. :D
  • DanielCDanielC Posts: 63MI6 Agent
    edited January 2018
    What's the fabric weight of the BR peacoat, approximately?

    I'm asking because I might be interested in having Luxire replicating it with minor changes such as two and only two exterior pockets (slash pockets in classic navy style) and a lighter lining with one inner pocket. Of course you have to be very thorough about all details, like the collar being two inches high, provide good images of the narrow peak lapels and specifically emphasize their design. And not to forget, the button placement.

    Quite impressed by their previous work. Not as stylish as the original, but still pretty good. MTM as a cherry on the cake.

    LL
    Looking for a ROYALE Filmwear Talamone Shawl Collar Cardigan, size medium. Preferably in Europe, but the US would work as well. Feel free to send a PM!
  • JancikJancik Posts: 86MI6 Agent
    Hey guys,

    Can you give me an insight how does the peacoat hold up with time? Could it survive a good couple of years or is it more of a fancy item than a "tool"?
    I am specifically interested in the 80/20 version.
  • MikeG77MikeG77 Posts: 1,590MI6 Agent
    Jancik wrote:
    Hey guys,

    Can you give me an insight how does the peacoat hold up with time? Could it survive a good couple of years or is it more of a fancy item than a "tool"?
    I am specifically interested in the 80/20 version.

    I've had my jacket for over three years and it's held up very well and it is very warm. The only issue I've had is some slight wear and pilling along the edge of the cuff of the sleeve but it's to be expected with a wool coat.
    I know where you keep your gun!
  • KMHPaladinKMHPaladin Posts: 49MI6 Agent
    The Mantis wrote:
    The Astor is cut boxier and looser than the PeaCoat, so trust me when I say size down...I was swimming in a medium.

    Don't think I ever added my two cents in this thread, but I would concur on this and Westward_Drift's comments about Billy Reid sizing. I originally ordered Medium and Large pea coats (this was late 2014) after reading this thread pretty exhaustively. My intent was to try them both on and return the lesser fit.

    I actually found little difference dimensionally - I was a bit confused and broke out tailor's tape. There really wasn't a substantial difference say shoulder-to-shoulder. Both were snug and I tried to convince myself the Large would work until I wore it after a couple weeks to dinner with family, and my father - who couldn't care less about clothes or style - commented on the fit.

    Thankfully Billy Reid were truly generous about accepting even a worn coat for an exchange, and I got an XL. Compared to the marginal difference between the M and L coats, this confounded my expectation as the XL was a noticeable jump in sizing. I eventually had a tiny bit of tailoring done from below the armpits to the waist to get a really tailored fit, but the shoulders, chest, and arms were much (much) better than previously.

    The only two hypotheses I could make were that the M coat was a mis-tagged L, or the sizing is substantially variable and there is a large amount of guesswork involved. Your mileage may vary.

    Alluding to Mantis' comment, I later got a great deal on an Astor coat in the SPECTRE coloring directly from Billy Reid. After my experience with the Bond peacoat (and as I recall the only caveat of the deal was Final Sale), I elected to go with what I knew and order in the same XL. I was frustrated to receive a much boxier cut that fit nicely in the shoulders and sleeves but could be worn double-breasted below.

    I ended up spending at least a hundred bucks having the Astor coat tailored to fit reasonably well. It's still a bit boxier than I'd prefer (the tailor wanted an additional charge for the waist suppression which I declined), but I decided I'd leave a little room for layering and leave the glove-tailored duty to the Bond peacoat.

    As frustrating as the experience was, Billy Reid's customer service was excellent, and the coats are great. The little touches like the leather accents are subtle, but very satisfying. And the cinematic connection is obvious enough for anyone here. Plus I get random compliments on both coats and even the tailor commented approvingly on Billy Reid when I brought them in. I'd rather have been aware going into the process, but I'm happy with the end outcomes.
  • Westward_DriftWestward_Drift Posts: 2,571MI6 Agent
    KMHPaladin, I find your experiences with Billy Reid sizing very interesting. The old BR sizing tags listed all available sizes with the garment sized circled. I often wondered if the wrong size was circled every now and then.

    I've found that Billy Reid jackets from circa 2011-2012 run slimmer than the same models today. I once ran across a NWT pre-Skyfall brown Bond peacoat in XXL that would at best be considered a Large based on the sizing charts of today.

    The comparisons to Belstaff sizing is apt. Still though, Billy Reid is one of my favorite designers. I've gotten compliments on the Billy Reid coats, jackets, and polo shirts I own.
  • MikeG77MikeG77 Posts: 1,590MI6 Agent
    KMHPaladin, I find your experiences with Billy Reid sizing very interesting. The old BR sizing tags listed all available sizes with the garment sized circled. I often wondered if the wrong size was circled every now and then.

    I've found that Billy Reid jackets from circa 2011-2012 run slimmer than the same models today. I once ran across a NWT pre-Skyfall brown Bond peacoat in XXL that would at best be considered a Large based on the sizing charts of today.

    The comparisons to Belstaff sizing is apt. Still though, Billy Reid is one of my favorite designers. I've gotten compliments on the Billy Reid coats, jackets, and polo shirts I own.

    I was reading through the thread about the sizing of the screen accurate Billy Reid Peacoat and i notice the sizing is different compared to the 80/20 version i bought in 2014. An XL has a shoulder measurement of 19.5 inches but mine is 19 and the chest measurement was a 44/45 compared to my jacket being 46 inches which leads me to assume i would have needed to "try" and XXL especially if they ran small. It makes me wonder why Billy Reid made the shoulders narrower and chest larger in the newer runs especially when they were based on the 100% wool version. Maybe Billy Reid will do another run if there is enough demand :D
    I know where you keep your gun!
  • KMHPaladinKMHPaladin Posts: 49MI6 Agent
    KMHPaladin, I find your experiences with Billy Reid sizing very interesting. The old BR sizing tags listed all available sizes with the garment sized circled. I often wondered if the wrong size was circled every now and then.

    I've found that Billy Reid jackets from circa 2011-2012 run slimmer than the same models today. I once ran across a NWT pre-Skyfall brown Bond peacoat in XXL that would at best be considered a Large based on the sizing charts of today.

    The comparisons to Belstaff sizing is apt. Still though, Billy Reid is one of my favorite designers. I've gotten compliments on the Billy Reid coats, jackets, and polo shirts I own.

    The Bond peacoats I bought in late '14 and even the Astor coat from early '16 all have the one-size-fits-all label with the sizing circled in ink. Your point is well taken - it could well have been a simple error like that. Suddenly I'm wondering if maybe they were actually both Mediums - so much was the difference from my initial two "M" and "L" coats to the XL, from "this is really snug" to "there's room to breathe here!"

    Who knows... I think the sizing issues I've had personally are mitigated by their customer service, which in my experience has been excellent. It's a bit frustrating compared to some more mainstream brands that you can't find your size in their brand's dimensions and then depend on it for future orders, but I suppose that comes with the territory dealing with more boutique brands.
  • DanielCDanielC Posts: 63MI6 Agent
    edited June 2018
    Finally got my BR peacoat '16 edition, black/dark navy delivered from the US, so I feel a short review could be in order.

    I'm 5'7, 155 lbs on a good day; athletically built with broad shoulders and a small waist. Medium seems like a good size for me.

    I'm so relieved the shoulders fit. Normally I look for a shoulder width of 18". This one measured exactly 17.75". I imagine the lack of a lining does help. Any narrower and it probably would have felt uncomfortable.

    Pit to pit it measures 41" which is perfect for my 39.5" chest. Actually very similiar to the classic WW2 peacoats.

    The constructon feels sturdy and I think it weighs about 4.40 lbs which leads me to believe the thickness is 26-28 oz per yard. To be honest I expected a somewhat softer wool, but at least this one will hold up for many years to come and not pill easily.
    Looking for a ROYALE Filmwear Talamone Shawl Collar Cardigan, size medium. Preferably in Europe, but the US would work as well. Feel free to send a PM!
  • DanielCDanielC Posts: 63MI6 Agent
    Just got my hands on a copy from the original run so now I have both the blend and the 100% wool.

    The original, a medium, has a weird sizing. It's super short at only 27.15" from bottom of the collar to the hem. Luckily I'm only 5'6-5'7, but I'd rather have had the advertised 29". BR must include the top of the collar, otherwise the measurement would be quite off. The sleeves are also really short, almost two inches shorter than the blend. However, the arms are somewhat slimmer and looks better.

    The wool is clearly softer, but I wouldn't say it's a major difference. It's not something that would put me off if I were to walk in to a store and choose between them.

    I'll only be wearing the original at rare occasions as it doesn't feel as durable. The blend will be my go-to winter jacket. I believe BR did most people a favor when they changed to 80/20. For 695$ I'd expect such a material.
    Looking for a ROYALE Filmwear Talamone Shawl Collar Cardigan, size medium. Preferably in Europe, but the US would work as well. Feel free to send a PM!
  • MikeG77MikeG77 Posts: 1,590MI6 Agent
    DanielC wrote:
    Just got my hands on a copy from the original run so now I have both the blend and the 100% wool.

    The original, a medium, has a weird sizing. It's super short at only 27.15" from bottom of the collar to the hem. Luckily I'm only 5'6-5'7, but I'd rather have had the advertised 29". BR must include the top of the collar, otherwise the measurement would be quite off. The sleeves are also really short, almost two inches shorter than the blend. However, the arms are somewhat slimmer and looks better.

    The wool is clearly softer, but I wouldn't say it's a major difference. It's not something that would put me off if I were to walk in to a store and choose between them.

    I'll only be wearing the original at rare occasions as it doesn't feel as durable. The blend will be my go-to winter jacket. I believe BR did most people a favor when they changed to 80/20. For 695$ I'd expect such a material.

    Congratulations on being able to get a jacket from the original run. I would love to find one but like you i am concerned about the measurements especially the shoulders!
    I know where you keep your gun!
  • DanielCDanielC Posts: 63MI6 Agent
    MikeG77 wrote:
    Congratulations on being able to get a jacket from the original run. I would love to find one but like you i am concerned about the measurements especially the shoulders!
    I'm overjoyed. The SA is a wee bit big in the shoulders and chest compared to my blend which looks tailor-made. As I age I'll fill out the SA better so I don't think I'll make any alterations.

    I've been looking for a nice peacoat a long time and no one compares to BR.

    Emporio Armani did have an appealing peacoat last winter which retailed at 800€ (I think) and went on sale for 380€. It's the only one I've seen that possibly could compete with the BR. Being made of 100% wool and with quilted lining, it would probably have been too warm. I think Bond would've approved of it though :) A picture: https://images.lvrcdn.com/Big66I/3GC/003_03e08201-4a7e-49cf-b7d6-da790af99345.JPG

    The lining (or lack of it) is really important to me since a breathable peacoat would be more versatile. I turned my eyes to the Australian market where they more often than not use bemberg (feels almost like silk). Very reasonably pricing when there are sales, but then there's shipping costs... An example: https://www.trenery.com.au/images/assetimages/tr-2015/03/menswear/trenery-menswear-investment-piece-modern-peacoat-2.jpg

    Daniel Love's replica of the BR would most likely be one of the best choices, if not the best, pricewise. Perhaps a new run this winter?

    Hugo Boss had something going with the semi-lined Orange Branco, but it's from their budget line so it's not that classy as far as wool quality and color selection goes.

    If anyone is looking for a dirty cheap option I'd wait for Combatant Gentlemen to present their AW18 peacoats which could give a sleek look. Definitely a step above H&M, Zara and the like, but below that of mid-range brands like Suitsupply and Club Monaco. Will probably be 100% wool, but questionable workmanship.

    H&M actually had a peak lapel version last winter. It fitted really tight in the shoulders and was a bit too long. The outer pockets were only made for the aesthetics and didn't provide any warmth. Comfortable rayon lining though. Not made for winter, only fall and spring.
    Looking for a ROYALE Filmwear Talamone Shawl Collar Cardigan, size medium. Preferably in Europe, but the US would work as well. Feel free to send a PM!
  • DanielCDanielC Posts: 63MI6 Agent
    oenone wrote:
    Thanks for the prior advice all - XS was the right size for me!

    The peacoat finally arrived and it is every bit as awesome as I was hoping it would be. I have just one (foolish) question:

    There is an interior button on the left side of the coat that appears to fasten to the button hole on the right lapel. I was wondering

    a) What is the point of this button? Is it just an extra way of securing the coat in place? Do people use this button?

    b) Which side of the lapel are you supposed to fasten to the button? It appears that the button can go through either side of the lapel (ie. it can either go through the lapel while it is still 'folded', so the button is between layers of the coat, OR it can go through the lapel after 'unfolding' the lapel, so the button is between the inner part of the coat and whatever you have on underneath the jacket) without any difference in appearance, just wondering if there is a 'correct' way. Let me know if this is confusingly worded!

    Thanks!
    I can just speak for myself. There's no way I can fasten the inner lapel by unfolding it. The button is so tightely attached that I simply can't make it go through the hole that way.

    I'm surprised you can actually button the lapel in two ways.
    Looking for a ROYALE Filmwear Talamone Shawl Collar Cardigan, size medium. Preferably in Europe, but the US would work as well. Feel free to send a PM!
  • KMHPaladinKMHPaladin Posts: 49MI6 Agent
    For anyone looking for a Billy Reid peacoat, I was perusing their current sale list and it looks like you can get the 80/20 Navy "Bond" peacoat only in size XXL for $347.50. Although XXL sounds big, I'm an athletic 6'2" 190lbs and wear an XL (at least as of their 2015 sizing). Looks to be "final sale" but if anyone's been looking for a deal I thought I'd pass it along.

    https://www.billyreid.com/collections/the-summer-pop-up/products/bond-peacoat?variant=33995072831532
  • frommeyerfrommeyer ChicagoPosts: 403MI6 Agent
    Has it been discontinued? Or will there be another run when the cool weather months return? This is one of those purchases I kept putting off and now I'm worried I waited too long heh.
  • km1fdmkm1fdm USAPosts: 139MI6 Agent
    frommeyer wrote:
    Has it been discontinued? Or will there be another run when the cool weather months return? This is one of those purchases I kept putting off and now I'm worried I waited too long heh.

    Being one of their best selling pieces, I couldn't imagine it would be totally discontinued. They release different versions of it periodically - diff blends of wool and one time even a cashmere version. Don't sleep on it next time you see them, great coat for winter.
  • frommeyerfrommeyer ChicagoPosts: 403MI6 Agent
    km1fdm wrote:
    frommeyer wrote:
    Has it been discontinued? Or will there be another run when the cool weather months return? This is one of those purchases I kept putting off and now I'm worried I waited too long heh.

    Being one of their best selling pieces, I couldn't imagine it would be totally discontinued. They release different versions of it periodically - diff blends of wool and one time even a cashmere version. Don't sleep on it next time you see them, great coat for winter.

    Ok, good. And, yeah, I'll grab one in the fall. I live in Chicago and donated a lot of outerwear, including my mediocre J.Crew peacoat, earlier this year. Can't not have a peacoat here.
  • frommeyerfrommeyer ChicagoPosts: 403MI6 Agent
    Just a follow-up for anyone who may have had the same concern - I spoke to someone at BR and, sure enough, they're re-releasing in the fall.
  • saross029saross029 Posts: 19MI6 Agent
    frommeyer wrote:
    Just a follow-up for anyone who may have had the same concern - I spoke to someone at BR and, sure enough, they're re-releasing in the fall.

    I figured they would. I saw it on their site last year. A good time to buy would be during their black Friday sale. If I remember correctly they did different percents off depending on how much you spent. I think the peacoat alone would have been 20 or 30%. I think it went fast though, especially the navy in the more popular sizes so you'll want to act fast.

    I think I saw in a Bond Experience video that BR is keeping it as part of their collection each year due to its popularity.
  • MikeG77MikeG77 Posts: 1,590MI6 Agent
    The Bond Peacoat is Billy Reid's most popular item so I don't see it going away anytime soon! Now all we need is to see if Billy Reid would do another run of the screen accurate 100% wool version :D
    I know where you keep your gun!
  • JTMJTM Posts: 2,975MI6 Agent
    MikeG77 wrote:
    The Bond Peacoat is Billy Reid's most popular item so I don't see it going away anytime soon! Now all we need is to see if Billy Reid would do another run of the screen accurate 100% wool version :D

    Didn't they update to a blend (80% wool, 20% nylon) to help with the coat's longevity as the 100% wool version was prone to pilling? There's really no noticeable difference in the coat's look between the two versions so I think I'd rather the version that will still look as good as new after a lot of wear...even though it technically doesn't have the same fabric composition as the one worn on screen.
  • frommeyerfrommeyer ChicagoPosts: 403MI6 Agent
    So I finally ordered a Bond Peacoat. Billy Reid seems to have changed a few things. From the website:
    Our iconic peacoat, named for our Bond Street store, is made in Italy from a durable and warm melton wool, and trimmed with luxurious calfskin. Finished with genuine horn buttons and a leather undercollar. Updated for the season with a more relaxed fit, and a slightly lighter fabric that allows more movement.

    Sounds like a fuller cut. And the fabric composition is now 75% wool and 25% nylon. Should arrive early next week. I'm excited.
  • bosoxfanbosoxfan Posts: 611MI6 Agent
    I got mine in early Spring at a deep discount and for perhaps the first time in my entire life I'm anxiously awaiting the first truly cold day to arrive. :))
    frommeyer wrote:
    So I finally ordered a Bond Peacoat. Billy Reid seems to have changed a few things. From the website:
    Our iconic peacoat, named for our Bond Street store, is made in Italy from a durable and warm melton wool, and trimmed with luxurious calfskin. Finished with genuine horn buttons and a leather undercollar. Updated for the season with a more relaxed fit, and a slightly lighter fabric that allows more movement.

    Sounds like a fuller cut. And the fabric composition is now 75% wool and 25% nylon. Should arrive early next week. I'm excited.
  • MikeG77MikeG77 Posts: 1,590MI6 Agent
    frommeyer wrote:
    So I finally ordered a Bond Peacoat. Billy Reid seems to have changed a few things. From the website:
    Our iconic peacoat, named for our Bond Street store, is made in Italy from a durable and warm melton wool, and trimmed with luxurious calfskin. Finished with genuine horn buttons and a leather undercollar. Updated for the season with a more relaxed fit, and a slightly lighter fabric that allows more movement.

    Sounds like a fuller cut. And the fabric composition is now 75% wool and 25% nylon. Should arrive early next week. I'm excited.

    Seems like a cost cutting measure going to a lighter 75/25 blend. The leather under the collar is definitely different and it's lighter and it also seems like the taper is less pronounced. If anyone is looking for a lighter weight version keep an eye out for the virgin wool/cashmere blend!
    I know where you keep your gun!
Sign In or Register to comment.