Went our for dinner tonight so grabbed the chance to try out the new tie. Waiter asked me where he could get one - unfortunately not M&S, TM or CT not even T&A.
He was surprised when he had not heard of the brand
Another of Canoe2’s new FRWL ties in the wild.
Great service from AKLASU, build and quality lovely for the price - fully recommend.
Got a wedding in Jan and this will round my neck for sure (just need to find a Rolex for my wrist now )
A big thank you to the team for pulling this together.
Cheers :007)
Big thank you for being a part. We've been working with Canoe2 on this for over a year and it's great to see it out in the wild.
Thanks for that Canoe2! Great review- and having hesitated on this jacket for ages, a combination of your review and the start of a UK autumn has made me pull the trigger on it!
Love the site as always. I can't seem to add a reply , with my iPad I get to the reply window and type the reply, but there is no submit and the window I type in doesn't get any larger.
I wanted to say how much I appreciate the effort you take and I love the outfits you photo and put together.
I have the first version of the jacket that I got second hand and I used it a lot last winter. I sometimes take my Barbour solden alternative and layer it together.
Mine was great except I've lost a button behind the hand warmer pocket, and several of the buttons on the fly section are lose and threads are hanging. The button used for the flap that holds the collar together to warm your neck are also loose and hanging.
I love it otherwise, I asked you about your Certina watch before is it Quartz or auto? You also mentioned your watched were stolen, what did you have previously?
I love the alternative pants you've found for the Mr white outfit, I've not been able to find good alternatives in the USA . Thanks for listening I hope I didn't derail ths thread! Chris
Hello!
Been a little busy; a great opportunity came along and I've opened a clothing store! It's been crazy but I'll share photos as soon as I get a second to breath
lotusguy2001: thanks for the kind words! The Certina watch is quartz and a model from 2010. It was the one I was wearing on vacation when my house was robbed. I didn't have anything super special before except a really nice Edox auto dress watch that my wife gave me for our anniversary. Was sad to see that one lost
I am happy to say that it looks like Dan has (mostly) fixed the button issue on the new version of the jacket. All of them were securely attached on the jacket I got. But I can definitely see a couple of them coming loose with use. If one does come off, I'm going to back them up with a smaller shirt button on the underside.
Enjoying Death: the sweater is older, from the 2012 season I think. You'd think a grey cableknit turtleneck wouldn't be that hard to find, but the combo of that color with the thinner cable pattern is pretty rare!
I am planning on getting a few TF suits and shirts made (have my appointment booked at the boutique in the New Year) including the SP PTS suit. Browsing some menswear sites today though I came across Oliver Wicks and this suit of theirs:
The pattern is very close to the TF SP PTS with the glen check and light blue overcheck/windowpane and the suit can be customised in many ways to make it similar to the TF–eg. lapel width and roll, number of front buttons, number of rear vents, slanted jacket pockets, side tabs instead of loops on the pants etc. The MTM price ($749) is also a fraction of the price the TF would cost to make. The only obvious difference between the two is the width of the windowpane.
My question for the group is whether or not the thicker and less subtle pattern on the Oliver Wicks suit is too much?? Would it still be appropriate for a business environment or is it too informal?
I am planning on getting a few TF suits and shirts made (have my appointment booked at the boutique in the New Year) including the SP PTS suit. Browsing some menswear sites today though I came across Oliver Wicks and this suit of theirs:
The pattern is very close to the TF SP PTS with the glen check and light blue overcheck/windowpane and the suit can be customised in many ways to make it similar to the TF–eg. lapel width and roll, number of front buttons, number of rear vents, slanted jacket pockets, side tabs instead of loops on the pants etc. The MTM price ($749) is also a fraction of the price the TF would cost to make. The only obvious difference between the two is the width of the windowpane.
My question for the group is whether or not the thicker and less subtle pattern on the Oliver Wicks suit is too much?? Would it still be appropriate for a business environment or is it too informal?
Were you planning to get a Tom Ford suit but are now considering Oliver Wicks instead? The difference in the pattern is minuscule to the other differences between the two suits. Both cloths are too bold for traditional business environments. A typical Prince of Wales check business suit would be a more muted blue overall with a windowpane that is only noticeable up close.
The quality of the cloth is also going to be much better with Tom Ford. Most Super 150s cloths aren't so good. I think the Tom Ford is about Super 110s, which is going to tailor much better than an inexpensive Super 150s. VBC is a good mill, but Oliver Wicks is using their bottom of the line cloth.
The biggest difference between the two brands is the cut of the suit and the quality. Oliver Wicks suits have a poor cut that does not follow the shape of the body. The fullness is in the wrong places. They also don't do a true full canvas. Their full-canvas suits are also fully fused, which makes the suit stiffer and prevents it from conforming to the body like a true full canvas does.
Tom Ford suits are amongst the best-made suits in the world short of bespoke. They have hand-work in the suit that is going to make it fit better and feel better. You can't compare it to Oliver Wicks.
I am planning on getting a few TF suits and shirts made (have my appointment booked at the boutique in the New Year) including the SP PTS suit. Browsing some menswear sites today though I came across Oliver Wicks and this suit of theirs:
The pattern is very close to the TF SP PTS with the glen check and light blue overcheck/windowpane and the suit can be customised in many ways to make it similar to the TF–eg. lapel width and roll, number of front buttons, number of rear vents, slanted jacket pockets, side tabs instead of loops on the pants etc. The MTM price ($749) is also a fraction of the price the TF would cost to make. The only obvious difference between the two is the width of the windowpane.
My question for the group is whether or not the thicker and less subtle pattern on the Oliver Wicks suit is too much?? Would it still be appropriate for a business environment or is it too informal?
I don't know near the amount of info that Matt does in his reply above, but I have this suit from OW. I wore it for my wedding and still wear it on occasion. I always tend to get compliments, though I think it may be too flashy for a business setting. My inspiration to get it was due to the PTS in Spectre. I tried to match the SA look as much as possible, and discussed the suit at length with OW prior to placing the order. I did the full canvas option, three roll two button stance, single vent, slanted pockets, side tabs, etc.
Just a warning if you do opt to go with them... I think it's an excellent suit, though I did have a few problems (and still do) with the fit of the suit. The biggest problem that I have is that the pattern OW used had too much fabric built into the shoulder/chest area. I also have the same problem with a few of their other suits. This causes the suit to bulge near my shoulder. It's odd though, because I didn't have this problem to begin -- it seems to get worse and worse with every wear. I've brought it to a few different tailors and each one has said that it is because there is too much fabric across the chest which causes it to bulge. Oliver Wicks doesn't have much of an explanation when I've asked them about it. I don't have a recent photo of it, though I'll attach one below of what I sent over to OW.
Just a warning if you do opt to go with them... I think it's an excellent suit, though I did have a few problems (and still do) with the fit of the suit. The biggest problem that I have is that the pattern OW used had too much fabric built into the shoulder/chest area. I also have the same problem with a few of their other suits. This causes the suit to bulge near my shoulder. It's odd though, because I didn't have this problem to begin -- it seems to get worse and worse with every wear. I've brought it to a few different tailors and each one has said that it is because there is too much fabric across the chest which causes it to bulge. Oliver Wicks doesn't have much of an explanation when I've asked them about it. I don't have a recent photo of it, though I'll attach one below of what I sent over to OW.
Is there shoulder padding in this suit? If not, it could have been cut for shoulder padding or for more shoulder padding than what is in it.
My impression with Oliver Wicks after wearing one of their jackets for three years is that they either didn't put much effort into developing their pattern or they don't have the expertise necessary to develop a good pattern. I brought some of their clothes to my tailor and he told me they're not cut well. Any problems I have had in their clothes have to do with cuts rather than fits. A poor fit can often be altered to make the clothes fit better; a poor cut cannot be fixed.
They revealed to me that they have an alternative trouser pattern with a taller 2-piece waistband (like Tom Ford's) rather than their standard 6-piece waistband pattern. After failed attempted to get their standard trouser pattern to fit me, they used their other pattern and it looks and fits so much better.
Just a warning if you do opt to go with them... I think it's an excellent suit, though I did have a few problems (and still do) with the fit of the suit. The biggest problem that I have is that the pattern OW used had too much fabric built into the shoulder/chest area. I also have the same problem with a few of their other suits. This causes the suit to bulge near my shoulder. It's odd though, because I didn't have this problem to begin -- it seems to get worse and worse with every wear. I've brought it to a few different tailors and each one has said that it is because there is too much fabric across the chest which causes it to bulge. Oliver Wicks doesn't have much of an explanation when I've asked them about it. I don't have a recent photo of it, though I'll attach one below of what I sent over to OW.
Is there shoulder padding in this suit? If not, it could have been cut for shoulder padding or for more shoulder padding than what is in it.
My impression with Oliver Wicks after wearing one of their jackets for three years is that they either didn't put much effort into developing their pattern or they don't have the expertise necessary to develop a good pattern. I brought some of their clothes to my tailor and he told me they're not cut well. Any problems I have had in their clothes have to do with cuts rather than fits. A poor fit can often be altered to make the clothes fit better; a poor cut cannot be fixed.
They revealed to me that they have an alternative trouser pattern with a taller 2-piece waistband (like Tom Ford's) rather than their standard 6-piece waistband pattern. After failed attempted to get their standard trouser pattern to fit me, they used their other pattern and it looks and fits so much better.
There is shoulder padding, as I requested the roped shoulder look as seen in most of Craig's TF suits. That would make sense though as the roping isn't default for them, and thus the cut isn't lining up with the normal amount of shoulder padding they typically put in... maybe?
For my last two suits I bought from them, I did opt for the traditional waistband that you recommended in some of your posts, Matt. I do prefer those over their standard waistband.
There is shoulder padding, as I requested the roped shoulder look as seen in most of Craig's TF suits. That would make sense though as the roping isn't default for them, and thus the cut isn't lining up with the normal amount of shoulder padding they typically put in... maybe?
For my last two suits I bought from them, I did opt for the traditional waistband that you recommended in some of your posts, Matt. I do prefer those over their standard waistband.
I would expect a straighter shoulder line with padding in there, and I don't see any roping. But you're right that if the shoulder padding isn't what they're used to, that can mess up the whole area. Also, Ii the upper sleeves aren't wide enough and the armhole isn't the right shape, the chest can suffer.
That brown BC military coat that Daniel has been wearing is growing on me! Would be great to hear what you guys find for alternatives. I’ve found the hunt a little difficult, trying to get all of the features like the ticket pocket correct.
That's a really good deal considering Sunspel charges $135 per shirt! I've reached out to Sunspel to confirm shoulder measurements for the XL/XXL before I make a purchase. Hopefully the sale will continue for a few days and they will still have my size available!
That's a really good deal considering Sunspel charges $135 per shirt! I've reached out to Sunspel to confirm shoulder measurements for the XL/XXL before I make a purchase. Hopefully the sale will continue for a few days and they will still have my size available!
Mike the XL I got from The Rake last year (unworn) has a back shoulder measurement of 19.25 inches and a chest (taken an inch below the armholes) of 22.5 inches.
That's a really good deal considering Sunspel charges $135 per shirt! I've reached out to Sunspel to confirm shoulder measurements for the XL/XXL before I make a purchase. Hopefully the sale will continue for a few days and they will still have my size available!
Mike the XL I got from The Rake last year (unworn) has a back shoulder measurement of 19.25 inches and a chest (taken an inch below the armholes) of 22.5 inches.
Thanks for the info! Shoulder wise to seems ok but the chest is gonna be too narrow for me so I'll need to do a XXL. I know there will be a bit of shrinkage once the shirt is laundered so I'm better of getting a XXL.
Not nearly as nice as the Brunello, but at less than one-tenth the cost it looks quite acceptable.
Best one yet, I think. It lacks a third bottom from the bottom. Could perhaps get a little cold. I would definitely have prefered to be able to button it at chest level.
Looking for a ROYALE Filmwear Talamone Shawl Collar Cardigan, size medium. Preferably in Europe, but the US would work as well. Feel free to send a PM!
Thanks very much for the tip! I received mine and it’s a bit large but probably not enough to go down a size. The label says not to tumble dry, but it would be great to shrink it a bit. Has anyone ever dried the sunspel polo? Any advice would be much appreciated!!
Thanks very much for the tip! I received mine and it’s a bit large but probably not enough to go down a size. The label says not to tumble dry, but it would be great to shrink it a bit. Has anyone ever dried the sunspel polo? Any advice would be much appreciated!!
What size did you buy and can you take some chest measurements?
Thanks very much for the tip! I received mine and it’s a bit large but probably not enough to go down a size. The label says not to tumble dry, but it would be great to shrink it a bit. Has anyone ever dried the sunspel polo? Any advice would be much appreciated!!
What size did you buy and can you take some chest measurements?
I’m usually a 42 - 44 suit and bought an xxl. I’ve never bought that size in my life but did so because the rake said that xl was equivalent to a 42 and i know it’s a slim fit.
Anyway, I am going to dry it a bit and see what happens.
Comments
Thank you and glad you are happy with it. -{
Awesome! Looking good, Sir. :x
Big thank you for being a part. We've been working with Canoe2 on this for over a year and it's great to see it out in the wild.
My review of Daniel's latest version of the Altaussee Mr White jacket is now published:
http://www.iconicalternatives.com/2018/10/08/royale-filmwear-altaussee-jacket-review/
Really like this one, he did an amazing job!
https://www.coach.com/coach-burnished-leather-four-pocket-jacket/21837.html?cgid=men-clothing&dwvar_color=CWH#viewAll=true&cgid=men-clothing&start=99
Thoughts on this jacket as a Casino Royale Armani alternative?
I wanted to say how much I appreciate the effort you take and I love the outfits you photo and put together.
I have the first version of the jacket that I got second hand and I used it a lot last winter. I sometimes take my Barbour solden alternative and layer it together.
Mine was great except I've lost a button behind the hand warmer pocket, and several of the buttons on the fly section are lose and threads are hanging. The button used for the flap that holds the collar together to warm your neck are also loose and hanging.
I love it otherwise, I asked you about your Certina watch before is it Quartz or auto? You also mentioned your watched were stolen, what did you have previously?
I love the alternative pants you've found for the Mr white outfit, I've not been able to find good alternatives in the USA . Thanks for listening I hope I didn't derail ths thread! Chris
Any link to the sweater from Benetton? I've looked but can't seem to find it. -{
Bond: “I must be dreaming.”
Been a little busy; a great opportunity came along and I've opened a clothing store! It's been crazy but I'll share photos as soon as I get a second to breath
lotusguy2001: thanks for the kind words! The Certina watch is quartz and a model from 2010. It was the one I was wearing on vacation when my house was robbed. I didn't have anything super special before except a really nice Edox auto dress watch that my wife gave me for our anniversary. Was sad to see that one lost
I am happy to say that it looks like Dan has (mostly) fixed the button issue on the new version of the jacket. All of them were securely attached on the jacket I got. But I can definitely see a couple of them coming loose with use. If one does come off, I'm going to back them up with a smaller shirt button on the underside.
Enjoying Death: the sweater is older, from the 2012 season I think. You'd think a grey cableknit turtleneck wouldn't be that hard to find, but the combo of that color with the thinner cable pattern is pretty rare!
Cheers gang! {[]
https://www.jcrew.com/p/mens_category/sportcoatsandvests/wool/ludlow-blazer-in-herringbone-english-tweed/C8778?color_name=rust-herringbone
https://www.uniqlo.com/de/de/product/herren-jacke-mit-abnehmbarem-fleece-kragen-409319.html?dwvar_409319_color=COL35&dwvar_409319_size=SMA002&cgid=IDmen
Also, "teal" sweater for Skyfall lodge outfit?
https://www.uniqlo.com/de/de/product/herren-pullover-aus-extra-feiner-merinowolle-mit-rundhalsausschnitt-409172.html?dwvar_409172_color=COL65&dwvar_409172_size=SMA002&cgid=IDmen
"- That is something to be afraid of."
https://www.oliverwicks.com/product/vendetta-super150s-blue-check-navy
The pattern is very close to the TF SP PTS with the glen check and light blue overcheck/windowpane and the suit can be customised in many ways to make it similar to the TF–eg. lapel width and roll, number of front buttons, number of rear vents, slanted jacket pockets, side tabs instead of loops on the pants etc. The MTM price ($749) is also a fraction of the price the TF would cost to make. The only obvious difference between the two is the width of the windowpane.
My question for the group is whether or not the thicker and less subtle pattern on the Oliver Wicks suit is too much?? Would it still be appropriate for a business environment or is it too informal?
Were you planning to get a Tom Ford suit but are now considering Oliver Wicks instead? The difference in the pattern is minuscule to the other differences between the two suits. Both cloths are too bold for traditional business environments. A typical Prince of Wales check business suit would be a more muted blue overall with a windowpane that is only noticeable up close.
The quality of the cloth is also going to be much better with Tom Ford. Most Super 150s cloths aren't so good. I think the Tom Ford is about Super 110s, which is going to tailor much better than an inexpensive Super 150s. VBC is a good mill, but Oliver Wicks is using their bottom of the line cloth.
The biggest difference between the two brands is the cut of the suit and the quality. Oliver Wicks suits have a poor cut that does not follow the shape of the body. The fullness is in the wrong places. They also don't do a true full canvas. Their full-canvas suits are also fully fused, which makes the suit stiffer and prevents it from conforming to the body like a true full canvas does.
Tom Ford suits are amongst the best-made suits in the world short of bespoke. They have hand-work in the suit that is going to make it fit better and feel better. You can't compare it to Oliver Wicks.
I don't know near the amount of info that Matt does in his reply above, but I have this suit from OW. I wore it for my wedding and still wear it on occasion. I always tend to get compliments, though I think it may be too flashy for a business setting. My inspiration to get it was due to the PTS in Spectre. I tried to match the SA look as much as possible, and discussed the suit at length with OW prior to placing the order. I did the full canvas option, three roll two button stance, single vent, slanted pockets, side tabs, etc.
Just a warning if you do opt to go with them... I think it's an excellent suit, though I did have a few problems (and still do) with the fit of the suit. The biggest problem that I have is that the pattern OW used had too much fabric built into the shoulder/chest area. I also have the same problem with a few of their other suits. This causes the suit to bulge near my shoulder. It's odd though, because I didn't have this problem to begin -- it seems to get worse and worse with every wear. I've brought it to a few different tailors and each one has said that it is because there is too much fabric across the chest which causes it to bulge. Oliver Wicks doesn't have much of an explanation when I've asked them about it. I don't have a recent photo of it, though I'll attach one below of what I sent over to OW.
Is there shoulder padding in this suit? If not, it could have been cut for shoulder padding or for more shoulder padding than what is in it.
My impression with Oliver Wicks after wearing one of their jackets for three years is that they either didn't put much effort into developing their pattern or they don't have the expertise necessary to develop a good pattern. I brought some of their clothes to my tailor and he told me they're not cut well. Any problems I have had in their clothes have to do with cuts rather than fits. A poor fit can often be altered to make the clothes fit better; a poor cut cannot be fixed.
They revealed to me that they have an alternative trouser pattern with a taller 2-piece waistband (like Tom Ford's) rather than their standard 6-piece waistband pattern. After failed attempted to get their standard trouser pattern to fit me, they used their other pattern and it looks and fits so much better.
There is shoulder padding, as I requested the roped shoulder look as seen in most of Craig's TF suits. That would make sense though as the roping isn't default for them, and thus the cut isn't lining up with the normal amount of shoulder padding they typically put in... maybe?
For my last two suits I bought from them, I did opt for the traditional waistband that you recommended in some of your posts, Matt. I do prefer those over their standard waistband.
I would expect a straighter shoulder line with padding in there, and I don't see any roping. But you're right that if the shoulder padding isn't what they're used to, that can mess up the whole area. Also, Ii the upper sleeves aren't wide enough and the armhole isn't the right shape, the chest can suffer.
https://naadam.co/products/felted-wool-jacket-navy?variant=12440340299893
Not nearly as nice as the Brunello, but at less than one-tenth the cost it looks quite acceptable.
https://therake.com/sunspel-navy-cotton-short-sleeve-riviera-polo.html
They also have the black for $65 in S, M, L, and XL
https://therake.com/sunspel-black-cotton-short-sleeve-riviera-polo.html
That's a really good deal considering Sunspel charges $135 per shirt! I've reached out to Sunspel to confirm shoulder measurements for the XL/XXL before I make a purchase. Hopefully the sale will continue for a few days and they will still have my size available!
Mike the XL I got from The Rake last year (unworn) has a back shoulder measurement of 19.25 inches and a chest (taken an inch below the armholes) of 22.5 inches.
Thanks for the info! Shoulder wise to seems ok but the chest is gonna be too narrow for me so I'll need to do a XXL. I know there will be a bit of shrinkage once the shirt is laundered so I'm better of getting a XXL.
Thanks very much for the tip! I received mine and it’s a bit large but probably not enough to go down a size. The label says not to tumble dry, but it would be great to shrink it a bit. Has anyone ever dried the sunspel polo? Any advice would be much appreciated!!
What size did you buy and can you take some chest measurements?
I’m usually a 42 - 44 suit and bought an xxl. I’ve never bought that size in my life but did so because the rake said that xl was equivalent to a 42 and i know it’s a slim fit.
Anyway, I am going to dry it a bit and see what happens.
https://www.buckmason.com/products/navy-felted-chore-coat