Anthony Sinclair Conduit Cut Teaser And Reveal

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  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,596MI6 Agent
    Can't say that I see very much difference there except perhaps the lapels. Beyond that, the pattern on the second jacket is a bit garish for me. Don't know too many military men who would wear it on this side of the pond.

    DG

    There's a very big difference between the two jackets. Sinclair's jacket has natural shoulder, the Poole jacket has straight, narrower shoulders (in relation to the chest) with a little padding. The Sinclair jacket has a full, draped chest whilst the Poole jacket has a cleaner, closer-fitting chest. The Poole jacket has more waist suppression (Sinclair felt an overly fitted waist common with many Savile Row tailors wasn't as elegant). The Poole jacket also has a higher button stance. As for the lapels, the Sinclair suit has a lower gorger than the Poole which contributes to it's relaxed look. The higher gorge on the Poole suit is more typical today. Lapel width doesn't factor in so much, especially since Connery's lapels weren't overly narrow. The Poole suit is as classic as lapel width can be. Overall, your Anthony Sinclair suit actually looks closer to Poole than what Sinclair himself used to tailor. But there's nothing wrong with that. Also, the silhouette and house style are applied to any type of body when fitting the suit. The cloth is irrelevent, though I personally like the Windowpane. It's quite subdued for an English sports coat actually and a very popular pattern for Tweed. I've seen pictures of Terence Young with far bolder sports coats, so I don't think English military men would object to the sports coat pictured above. Bold patterns are a much bigger part of English style than American.

    I hope this helps explain where I'm coming from.
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  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    edited June 2012
    Matt S wrote:
    Can't say that I see very much difference there except perhaps the lapels. Beyond that, the pattern on the second jacket is a bit garish for me. Don't know too many military men who would wear it on this side of the pond.

    DG

    There's a very big difference between the two jackets. Sinclair's jacket has natural shoulder, the Poole jacket has straight, narrower shoulders (in relation to the chest) with a little padding. The Sinclair jacket has a full, draped chest whilst the Poole jacket has a cleaner, closer-fitting chest. The Poole jacket has more waist suppression (Sinclair felt an overly fitted waist common with many Savile Row tailors wasn't as elegant). The Poole jacket also has a higher button stance. As for the lapels, the Sinclair suit has a lower gorger than the Poole which contributes to it's relaxed look. The higher gorge on the Poole suit is more typical today. Lapel width doesn't factor in so much, especially since Connery's lapels weren't overly narrow. The Poole suit is as classic as lapel width can be. Overall, your Anthony Sinclair suit actually looks closer to Poole than what Sinclair himself used to tailor. But there's nothing wrong with that. Also, the silhouette and house style are applied to any type of body when fitting the suit. The cloth is irrelevent, though I personally like the Windowpane. It's quite subdued for an English sports coat actually and a very popular pattern for Tweed. I've seen pictures of Terence Young with far bolder sports coats, so I don't think English military men would object to the sports coat pictured above. Bold patterns are a much bigger part of English style than American.

    I hope this helps explain where I'm coming from.

    Yep, I get where you are coming from. But can't say that I necessarily agree. To my eye, I still don't see all that much difference despite your explanation. Perhaps my eyes need more training. Still waiting for an answer from David Mason as to why military men favored Sinclair suits.

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,596MI6 Agent
    Thanks for asking David Mason. I'd be interested to hear why if anyone knows a reason. Part of it I'm sure has to be word-of-mouth. One man went their and recommended Sinclair to his friends from the Army. Tailors relied much on that for their business since they mostly didn't advertise.
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  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    Matt S wrote:
    Thanks for asking David Mason. I'd be interested to hear why if anyone knows a reason. Part of it I'm sure has to be word-of-mouth. One man went their and recommended Sinclair to his friends from the Army. Tailors relied much on that for their business since they mostly didn't advertise.

    Quite possible. I don't know if you know this, but David Mason is also behind the re-birth of Nutters too. A very busy man!

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,596MI6 Agent
    Quite possible. I don't know if you know this, but David Mason is also behind the re-birth of Nutters too. A very busy man!

    DG

    I did not know that! That's very exciting. A very distinct brand, and very different from Anthony Sinclair. Tom Ford would appear to be influenced very much by Nutters, though it wouldn't be at all evident if you just go by the suits in Skyfall.
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    edited June 2012
    Matt S wrote:
    Quite possible. I don't know if you know this, but David Mason is also behind the re-birth of Nutters too. A very busy man!

    DG

    I did not know that! That's very exciting. A very distinct brand, and very different from Anthony Sinclair. Tom Ford would appear to be influenced very much by Nutters, though it wouldn't be at all evident if you just go by the suits in Skyfall.


    Yep, a continuation of the shop once owned by the now deceased Tommy Nutter. The maverick tailor of Saville Row.

    DG

    Edit - here is the link:

    http://www.nosr.co.uk/index.html
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,596MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:
    Quite possible. I don't know if you know this, but David Mason is also behind the re-birth of Nutters too. A very busy man!

    DG

    I did not know that! That's very exciting. A very distinct brand, and very different from Anthony Sinclair. Tom Ford would appear to be influenced very much by Nutters, though it wouldn't be at all evident if you just go by the suits in Skyfall.


    Yep, a continuation of the shop once owned by the now deceased Tommy Nutter. The maverick tailor of Saville Row.

    DG

    Edit - here is the link:

    http://www.nosr.co.uk/index.html

    Actually, Edward Sexton is a continuation of the original. If you don't know, Sexton was the man behind Nutters. A little while after Nutter left Nutters, Sexton changed the name of the shop to his own. I can't say for sure, but I get the impression that this operation is similar to Anthony Sinclair, a new business that uses the name and heritage of an old shop. I commend David Mason for resurrecting these old brands that are still relevant in today's fashion world yet have the rare element of class and quality (and just good design) that is so hard to find in today's fashion industry. Tom Ford's copies have shown just how relevant Nutters still is. Mason's modern marketing techniques I'm sure put off the more traditional tailors, but they only benefit the whole world of good style and a return to true tailoring.
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  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    Well, the last time I spoke to David, he did say that one of the original people involved in Nutters is involved in this new Nutters. That may be Sexton, although I can't say for certain.

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,596MI6 Agent
    Well, the last time I spoke to David, he did say that one of the original people involved in Nutters is involved in this new Nutters. That may be Sexton, although I can't say for certain.

    DG

    I doubt Sexton, since his shop is still in business. It's also probably not since the website makes no mention of Sexton. I can see why Sexton isn't mentioned on the site because he's the main competition, but I do think it's a little odd to create a new Nutters when you can still have a suit made by the original tailor.
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    edited June 2012
    Matt S wrote:
    Well, the last time I spoke to David, he did say that one of the original people involved in Nutters is involved in this new Nutters. That may be Sexton, although I can't say for certain.

    DG

    I doubt Sexton, since his shop is still in business. It's also probably not since the website makes no mention of Sexton. I can see why Sexton isn't mentioned on the site because he's the main competition, but I do think it's a little odd to create a new Nutters when you can still have a suit made by the original tailor.

    Oh, I see. He did mention someone, but the name escapes me.

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • SuperintendentSuperintendent Here and there...Posts: 61MI6 Agent
    Designing Bond's Look

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF8drqFEvBQ

    This new web documentary details the evolution of James Bond's personal style, meeting award winning costume designer, Lindy Hemming; and a handful of bespoke tailors who have been instrumental in shaping and crafting this icon of style over 50 years. The Barbican marks the 50th anniversary of James Bond with a unique exhibition showcasing the inside story of the design and style of the world's most influential and iconic movie brand: http://www.barbican.org.uk/bond/
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    Yeah, David Mason has been working hard on re-creating Connery's suits for Barbican. As I understand it, a lot of the original wardrobe is missing from EON's Archive, so he had to put in some serious effort. I can't wait to see the exhibition myself.

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • FrankNorrisFrankNorris Posts: 22MI6 Agent
    edited December 2013
    @Donald Grant

    Lovely suit!

    Out of interest, how long did it take for the suit to arrive? (I.e. from when you were first measured to the suit arriving at Dave's place).

    Also, do you know how many people work on/make the special order suits?

    Edit:

    I should add that I'm asking because I'm planning to get some items made from Dave Mason, but I'd like to hear how long it took from someone who's had a suit made :) (i.e. a real world example, as opposed to ~4 weeks maybe).
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    @Donald Grant

    Lovely suit!

    Out of interest, how long did it take for the suit to arrive? (I.e. from when you were first measured to the suit arriving at Dave's place).

    Also, do you know how many people work on/make the special order suits?

    Edit:

    I should add that I'm asking because I'm planning to get some items made from Dave Mason, but I'd like to hear how long it took from someone who's had a suit made :) (i.e. a real world example, as opposed to ~4 weeks maybe).

    If memory serves, I met with David Mason to be measured in February. I next met with David in June to pick up my suit. It had to be altered slightly, but I ultimately got it perhaps a week after I met with David for the fitting. However, I think the time frame has more to due with the fact that David lives and works in England and I live and work on the East Coast of the U.S. David has to make scheduled visits to the U.S. accommodate his U.S. customers. Also, it depends on what kind of suit you order. A bespoke suit will take longer with more fittings. A special order suit is essentially a made to measure suit and takes less time. So the time factor depends on where you live and what kind of suit you order.

    In any event it was a great experience and David Mason is a very nice gentlemen. He made me feel very special. It was a unique experience and very personal quite unlike shopping at a department store. I have been meaning to order a Connery surveillance kit which consists of black pants and a black long sleeved polo shirt. I had discussed it with him at our last meeting.

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • HigginsHiggins GermanyPosts: 16,618MI6 Agent
    great to hear, that Sinclair is back and kicking!

    Will get one of their suits ordered very soon!

    Thanks for keeping us updated, old man! {[]
    President of the 'Misty Eyes Club'.

    Dalton - the weak and weepy Bond!
  • FrankNorrisFrankNorris Posts: 22MI6 Agent
    If memory serves, I met with David Mason to be measured in February. I next met with David in June to pick up my suit. It had to be altered slightly, but I ultimately got it perhaps a week after I met with David for the fitting. However, I think the time frame has more to due with the fact that David lives and works in England and I live and work on the East Coast of the U.S. David has to make scheduled visits to the U.S. accommodate his U.S. customers. Also, it depends on what kind of suit you order. A bespoke suit will take longer with more fittings. A special order suit is essentially a made to measure suit and takes less time. So the time factor depends on where you live and what kind of suit you order.

    In any event it was a great experience and David Mason is a very nice gentlemen. He made me feel very special. It was a unique experience and very personal quite unlike shopping at a department store. I have been meaning to order a Connery surveillance kit which consists of black pants and a black long sleeved polo shirt. I had discussed it with him at our last meeting.

    DG

    Thank you for your reply DG.

    I'll probably be going with a Special Order suit. Did you ask to have your suit trousers tapered at the bottom?

    Regarding the surveillance kit, does David Mason do polo shirts? I've also been considering getting a pair of flat fronted, black cavalry twill trousers too.
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    If memory serves, I met with David Mason to be measured in February. I next met with David in June to pick up my suit. It had to be altered slightly, but I ultimately got it perhaps a week after I met with David for the fitting. However, I think the time frame has more to due with the fact that David lives and works in England and I live and work on the East Coast of the U.S. David has to make scheduled visits to the U.S. accommodate his U.S. customers. Also, it depends on what kind of suit you order. A bespoke suit will take longer with more fittings. A special order suit is essentially a made to measure suit and takes less time. So the time factor depends on where you live and what kind of suit you order.

    In any event it was a great experience and David Mason is a very nice gentlemen. He made me feel very special. It was a unique experience and very personal quite unlike shopping at a department store. I have been meaning to order a Connery surveillance kit which consists of black pants and a black long sleeved polo shirt. I had discussed it with him at our last meeting.

    DG

    Thank you for your reply DG.

    I'll probably be going with a Special Order suit. Did you ask to have your suit trousers tapered at the bottom?

    Regarding the surveillance kit, does David Mason do polo shirts? I've also been considering getting a pair of flat fronted, black cavalry twill trousers too.

    No, I did not have the trousers tapered. That's part of the Anthony Sinclair look, or rather the house cut. As for the surveillance kit, when I talked to David he spoke about the possibility of a polo shirt that would be much better finished than your typical polo shirt. This finishing had to do with how the seams would be sewn and so forth.

    I think the special order suit is a great deal. You get very personal service in which you pick the fabric and the lining. The suits do not exist on a hanger somewhere. The suits are made to a pattern that is closest to your measurement and then altered if necessary to fit you better. Moreover, when you buy a suit, you are dealing with the main guy, not just some possibly snooty sales person. I found David to be a very down to earth well dressed guy who cares about his customers. To top it off he wears black Steve McQueen Persols as his glasses, and on his Nutters website he poses with a Bull Terrier! My favorite breed. David Mason is "da bomb"! A very classy and stylish fellow.

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • FrankNorrisFrankNorris Posts: 22MI6 Agent
    Thank you for the reply DG.

    Yeah, I've heard only great things about David Mason, so I look forward to seeing him soon.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,596MI6 Agent
    I can also vouch for David Mason. He's a great guy. And if he's good enough for James Bond he's good enough for anyone else!
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • FrankNorrisFrankNorris Posts: 22MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:
    I can also vouch for David Mason. He's a great guy. And if he's good enough for James Bond he's good enough for anyone else!

    Definitely. A friend of mine is currently having a Special Order blazer made and he said pretty much the same thing as DG and you.

    Also, I assume you're the same Matt who does that God-Like blog on the JB's suits ;) It's super awesome, though I'm still stuck on what that blue/navy suit from Goldfinger is when Bond visits Q :s
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    Bondtoys wrote:
    great to hear, that Sinclair is back and kicking!

    Will get one of their suits ordered very soon!

    Thanks for keeping us updated, old man! {[]

    Yeah, the suit will go well with your contemporary Bond Submariner!

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,596MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:
    I can also vouch for David Mason. He's a great guy. And if he's good enough for James Bond he's good enough for anyone else!

    Definitely. A friend of mine is currently having a Special Order blazer made and he said pretty much the same thing as DG and you.

    Also, I assume you're the same Matt who does that God-Like blog on the JB's suits ;) It's super awesome, though I'm still stuck on what that blue/navy suit from Goldfinger is when Bond visits Q :s

    I'm glad you like my blog. That suit is most likely some type of tweed but I still can't tell for sure. Like most of the suits in Goldfinger, it was originally used in the film Woman of Straw. That's why this suit and the suit in M's office are country suits.
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    You can't go wrong with Anthony Sinclair. Moreover JayZ will never have a rap song saying he's "rocking Anthony Sinclair". Thank goodness! For the time being JayZ will only be rapping that he's "rocking Tom Ford".

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • FrankNorrisFrankNorris Posts: 22MI6 Agent
    You can't go wrong with Anthony Sinclair. Moreover JayZ will never have a rap song saying he's "rocking Anthony Sinclair". Thank goodness! For the time being JayZ will only be rapping that he's "rocking Tom Ford".

    DG

    This is very true too. (You should add Kanye to that list as well).

    Also,

    "Where were you measured for this 'bud?"

    "My tailor; Montagu Square!" ;)
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    You can't go wrong with Anthony Sinclair. Moreover JayZ will never have a rap song saying he's "rocking Anthony Sinclair". Thank goodness! For the time being JayZ will only be rapping that he's "rocking Tom Ford".

    DG

    This is very true too. (You should add Kanye to that list as well).

    Also,

    "Where were you measured for this 'bud?"

    "My tailor; Montagu Square!" ;)

    I did not know that Kanye raps about Tom Ford, but I do know that JayZ has a song with the title "Tom Ford". This suggests to me a fad. Bond should never be faddish. Stylish, yes but trendy or faddish, never! If Bond returned to Anthony Sinclair, all would be right with the world.

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • The Bond ExperienceThe Bond Experience Newtown, PAPosts: 5,490Quartermasters
    I think when they engaged TF for QoS the name wasn't out there quite so much....wasn't a fad back then...now TF has become a verb as much as a noun! I wouldn't mind the costume designer changing things up for the next Bond and know Craig HEAVILY influences these choices...thus, makes me think Sinclair wont be in the cards and Sinclair will be a company that has wonderful historical resonance and a strong Bond connection from the past.
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    edited December 2013
    From what I understand Craig chose Tom Ford, so... However, Bond should be dressed by a British tailor. That is part of the DNA of Bond. It is the same reason Brioni was not right for Bond either. The truth is, after talking to David Mason about this, today the Bond production has to have many multiples of the same Bond suit. Something that only large behemoth companies like Brioni, and Tom Ford can handle. So Anthony Sinclair probably won't return to the Bond movies. But I can always hold out hope for Bond, Anthony Sinclair, David Mason and my self.

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
  • FrankNorrisFrankNorris Posts: 22MI6 Agent
    I did not know that Kanye raps about Tom Ford, but I do know that JayZ has a song with the title "Tom Ford". This suggests to me a fad. Bond should never be faddish. Stylish, yes but trendy or faddish, never! If Bond returned to Anthony Sinclair, all would be right with the world.

    DG

    I agree! As for Kanye, I'm not sure if he's mentioned TF specifically, but he does mention other designers (and is always ranting about leather pants and someone ripping off his idea or something....I think he's mad), but yeah, the whole Jay Z rapping about TF etc does come across as faddish.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,596MI6 Agent
    From what I understand Craig chose Tom Ford, so... However, Bond should be dressed by a British tailor. That is part of the DNA of Bond. It is the same reason Brioni was not right for Bond either. The truth is, after talking to David Mason about this, today the Bond production has to have many multiples of the same Bond suit. Something that only large behemoth companies like Brioni, and Tom Ford can handle. So Anthony Sinclair probably won't return to the Bond movies. But I can always hold out hope for Bond, Anthony Sinclair, David Mason and my self.

    DG

    The large number of suits is part of it. The other part is the cost. Tailors need to be paid and don't have a marketing budged. That's probably why they stopped using Turnbull & Asser for all the shirts in Die Another Day, because Brioni could instead provide the shirts free. Tom Ford can eat the cost for promotion. At least Tom Ford is a little closer to Savile Row than Brioni, since Tom Ford's clothing is very much inspired by Nutters. Well, the clothing in Skyfall isn't Nutters-inspired, but the style that Ford is better known for is more like a copy of Tommy Nutter's designs. It's just as well they aren't using the Nutter/Ford style suits for Bond since they're much too flashy. But the style of the QoS suits isn't so bad. It looks close to Savile Row (except for the top buttonhole). But it's nothing like Sinclair.
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • Donald GrantDonald Grant U.S.A.Posts: 2,241Quartermasters
    Yes, nothing like Sinclair! Moreover, from what I understand Tom Ford suits are actually made by Ermenegildo Zegna. It's apparently Ford's style, but made by Zegna. However, Matt, you probably know more about it than I do, so if I have mis-spoken please feel free to correct me.

    DG
    So, what sharp little eyes you've got...wait till you get to my teeth.
    image_zps6a725e59.jpg
    "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." Richard Grenier after George Orwell, Washington Times 1993.
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