Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
edited June 2005
Coincidentally, I read that only a day or two ago and thought it sounded odd.
He was wearing a very dark blue lightweight single-breasted suit over a cream silk shirt and a black knitted silk tie. Despite the heat, he looked cool and clean, and his only concession to the tropics appeared to be the black saddle-stiched sandles on his bare feet.
Thunderball, Chapter 11
I suppose the question isn't how he wears sandals with a suit, but why? Just goes to show that even Fleming-Bond has the odd moment of dubious taste.
I supopose the question isn't how he wears sandals with a suit, but why? Just goes to show that even Fleming-Bond has the odd moment of dubious taste.
I can't imagine the sandals he'd be wearing though. And how on earth did he pick up Domino - surely she wouldn't have gone for a drink with a guy dressed like that!
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
edited June 2005
Just to let everyone know - the 'List' article (4) is under constant revision as people add their observations. So far the evening wear, shirts, summer shirts and underwear sections have all been revised.
I draw the line at adding a recommendation for sandals with a suit though. As for what form these would take, he'd go for something with simple lines that looked as though it wouldn't date – avoiding the current rash of ‘technical’ sandals.
A great help. Although I can't just pop into T&A I've spent many hours looking for a black knitted silk tie on the web before to no avail. Spured by your assertion that they are available I just found one here.
It's ordered and on it's way
And it arrived this morning! Doesn't have the T&A name attached to it, but it appears well made, doesn't twist, although slightly wider than I would imagine is authentic. Excellent service and a good option for the budget Bond.
Shame I work at home - Mrs Barracuda is on assignment in Italy at the moment, so there's only the cat to show it off too - and I can't imagine what Bill Tanner would say to my wearing it with shorts
You say you were unable to find any info on the Revelation suitcase. Don't know if this is much help, but I've found an advert from 1926 (too early, I know) for Revelation suitcases here.
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
What are the rules on suspenders, because Tim Dalton wears white suspenders with his tux in TLD, and I don;t think I've seen Bond with suspenders before, I may be wrong. It is a great tux, though.
What are the rules on suspenders, because Tim Dalton wears white suspenders with his tux in TLD, and I don;t think I've seen Bond with suspenders before, I may be wrong. It is a great tux, though.
Ohhhhhhhhh, you Americans need to learn what suspenders are. James Bond would never wear suspenders, although a Bond girl may.
You mean braces. And Bond shouldn't in my book. But Bill may have other ideas.
Coincidentally, I read that only a day or two ago and thought it sounded odd.
He was wearing a very dark blue lightweight single-breasted suit over a cream silk shirt and a black knitted silk tie. Despite the heat, he looked cool and clean, and his only concession to the tropics appeared to be the black saddle-stiched sandles on his bare feet.
Thunderball, Chapter 11
I suppose the question isn't how he wears sandals with a suit, but why? Just goes to show that even Fleming-Bond has the odd moment of dubious taste.
Perhaps this is the percursor to Miami Vice, and hence Franz Sanchez's fashion styles? Speaking of which, the closest we see Bond doing this on film is the Hemingway House sequence in LTK in which he's wearing a casual blazer, no tie, with Vans style canvas shoes, going even sockless if I remember correctly. I lived through the 80's going sockless in tennis shoes, loafers and hurrache sandals, which I can't seem to do anymore...but it was liberating and refreshing to do so.
"...the purposeful slant of his striding figure looked dangerous, as if he was making quickly for something bad that was happening further down the street." -SMERSH on 007 dossier photo, Ch. 6 FRWL.....
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
What are the rules on suspenders, because Tim Dalton wears white suspenders with his tux in TLD, and I don;t think I've seen Bond with suspenders before, I may be wrong. It is a great tux, though.
Ohhhhhhhhh, you Americans need to learn what suspenders are. James Bond would never wear suspenders, although a Bond girl may.
You mean braces. And Bond shouldn't in my book. But Bill may have other ideas.
... I'm sorry. Now I'm confused. The things looked like suspenders to me. What are braces? Again, I blame the American school curriculum.
What are the rules on suspenders, because Tim Dalton wears white suspenders with his tux in TLD, and I don;t think I've seen Bond with suspenders before, I may be wrong. It is a great tux, though.
Ohhhhhhhhh, you Americans need to learn what suspenders are. James Bond would never wear suspenders, although a Bond girl may.
You mean braces. And Bond shouldn't in my book. But Bill may have other ideas.
... I'm sorry. Now I'm confused. The things looked like suspenders to me. What are braces? Again, I blame the American school curriculum.
It's just another instance of us being separated by a common language.
US : UK
suspenders = braces
garters= suspenders
MBE
superadoRegent's Park West (CaliforniaPosts: 2,652MI6 Agent
I've used the terms synomymously, depending who I'm conversing with. I'm taking a wild guess that suspenders have clips, while braces have the upside-down "Y" fasteners for buttons in the trouser waistband.
"...the purposeful slant of his striding figure looked dangerous, as if he was making quickly for something bad that was happening further down the street." -SMERSH on 007 dossier photo, Ch. 6 FRWL.....
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
... I'm sorry. Now I'm confused. The things looked like suspenders to me. What are braces? Again, I blame the American school curriculum.
LOL. I'm just a Brit trying to confuse, not to educate - see MBE's explanation.
It makes no difference whether they have the inverted Y buttoned to the waistband or the clips, they're still braces. Incidentally, if Bond does wear braces, he would never wear clips.
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
Go watch TLD, I'm PRETTY sure he wears clips, and you can see it during the scene where Saunders is killed.
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
edited June 2005
You may have noticed there's a gremlin in Si's new quoting generator which has incorrectly attributed some of the suspender queries to me.
My opinion on braces/suspenders is that, like belt loops, they should be unnecessarry on a hand made suit.
Did Tim hire his Tux?
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
Hey- there is a Turnbull and Asser in New York! I didn't know that! Now I don't have to go to England!
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
edited June 2005
Did Roger Moore wear a belt on his suits? I think he might've, but I'm not sure.
Edit: I think he did. I went to Turnbull and Asser in NY today. Pretty cool. But they don't list their prices on the Sea Island Cotton underwear. Which is probably the only thing I could afford right now. Oh well. I'll go back soon.
NightshooterIn bed with SolitairePosts: 2,917MI6 Agent
Hmm... after watching Goldfinger, it looks to me that Connery wears cufflinks in almost every scene.
As near as I can remember, until Brosnan, none of the Bond's wore belts with their suits. However, the couple of times Connery wore a sport jacket and pants (I think this started in Goldfinger) and with Moore's more common use of jacket or blazer and pants I believe they wore belts.
Oddly, as near as I can tell Brosnan made the fatal style faux pas of wearing a black belt with brown monk strap shoes in TWINE. You can see it when he jumps off the balcony near the end.
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
If by early, you mean the first five films, then yes.
The first two, Terence Young films feature the slim shawl collar (no notches) and the affectation of a turned-back satin cuff to the jacket sleeves.
There are a number of changes to the general look of the tailoring for Goldfinger, but whether this is due to the influence of Guy Hamilton or the wardrobe designer, I've never been able to determine. Connery wears two dinner suits: the white jacket feature the notched lapel in the correct evening-wear style, double-breasted style on a single breasted jacket. The later black jacket commits the sartorial faux-pas of using the single-breasted collar style, usually only associated with off-the peg manufacturers who are trying to save a little by only using one collar style for their daywear and evening wear suits. At least the satin cuffs have been ditched.
For Thunderball, Young was back on board and no doubt asserting his taste with the wardrobe choices. The shawl collars are back and he's finally seen the folly of his earlier ways and also ditched the satin cuffs this time out.
If memory serves, there's no dinner suit scene in YOLT.
Does anyone know who did Dalton's suits? It seems to me, and I could be wrong, that Peter Mayle, in his piece on getting a bespoke suit mentions that his tailor did Dalton's suits.
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
For all those that have been following the Closet Spy series of articles, just a quick 'heads-up' to some editorial changes I've made.
You won't notice a lot of difference from a casual read, but sections in the 2nd article (film suits) and 4th article (list) regarding shirts ties and underwear have all received minor revision.
I've been updating the information on a regular basis, whenever anything new crops up, so check back in this thread for updates.
The articles are excellent (especially that last installment, I liked it) however, for those looking to live the Bond lifestyle, I have an appropriate idea.
Being that Connery only wore Turnbull and Asser shirts (yeah, they really are $290 per shirt, and it took some time but now my closet is full of only TA's) I am not sure if anyone likes this idea.
Do a google search for Savile Row, and go to the Savile Row company. Under formal wear, they have what is called the "Classic shirt" or something like that nature. They are selling Savile Row's for $30!, I recommend getting some of them now, because that is a great deal, plus it is a brand of Bond. Suggestions....
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
Hello again Jones,
The articles (and this thread) all deal with what has been used in the films or mentioned in the novels, so that people will know how to identify the original items and replicate or interpret the 'look', in their own image.
There hasn't been an overwhelming response to that thread - surprising when, as you point out, the original items are so costly. Your shirt suggestion is an excellent one, would you mind pasting into that thread? Hopefully it might revive some interest in the subject.
Bill Tanner"Spending the money quickly" iPosts: 261MI6 Agent
Not wanting to dampen your enthusiasm, I had a quick look at the Savile Row Co. site, and have to say I'm a little dubious.
Yes, they have a premises on Savile Row, but if you read the small print you'll notice that the goods are actually dispatched from a factory in Londonderry. Also, the shirts they're selling seem to be 100% cotton - not the highly prized Sea Island variety. I also doubt the quality of construction, which is what you pay for with T&A: single needle stitching for the seams and a collar made up from separate layers (rather than fusing) giving that much-prized, gentle ruffled effect after a few washes.
The shirts are fine in themselves and will give the general look, but they're nothing particularly special that you couldn't buy in any high street retailer for the same price or cheaper. As for 'Savile Row' as a brand, that's another matter. The Row is an area of London where some of finest tailors in the world are located, it isn't any one, specific shop. Use of the name in a label strikes me as slightly spurious - especially when the clothing appears to be made elsewhere.
For Sea Island on a budget I'd recommend Charles Tyrwhitt: www.ctshirts.co.uk
I don't know about their construction (they conveniently omitted this information from their brochure) but at least the material is right.
I own a few of the CT shirts and they are of decent construction and very comfortable but the Sea Island ones are not as luxurious as my Turnbull and Asser ones...
Bill Tanner, your articles are phenomenal....does anyone have any idea what shoes Brosnan was wearing as he was driving the Vanquish on the ice in DAD?
A copy of a letter from Ian Fleming to the art director of Playboy is published in James Bond - The Man and His World.
It concerns the way that 007 should dress, right from the horses mouth and is interesting in some of the details that I don't recall being in the books:
To quote:
Wears two-button single-breasted suit in dark blue tropical worsted. Black leather belt.
White Sea Island cotton shirt, sleeveless.
Black casual shoes, square toed
Thin black knitted silk tie, no pin
Dark blue socks, cotton lisle.
No handkerchief in breast pocket
Wears Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch
Comments
He was wearing a very dark blue lightweight single-breasted suit over a cream silk shirt and a black knitted silk tie. Despite the heat, he looked cool and clean, and his only concession to the tropics appeared to be the black saddle-stiched sandles on his bare feet.
Thunderball, Chapter 11
I suppose the question isn't how he wears sandals with a suit, but why? Just goes to show that even Fleming-Bond has the odd moment of dubious taste.
I can't imagine the sandals he'd be wearing though. And how on earth did he pick up Domino - surely she wouldn't have gone for a drink with a guy dressed like that!
The James Bond Dossier | SPECTRE | Q-Branch James Bond Podcast
I draw the line at adding a recommendation for sandals with a suit though. As for what form these would take, he'd go for something with simple lines that looked as though it wouldn't date – avoiding the current rash of ‘technical’ sandals.
And it arrived this morning! Doesn't have the T&A name attached to it, but it appears well made, doesn't twist, although slightly wider than I would imagine is authentic. Excellent service and a good option for the budget Bond.
Shame I work at home - Mrs Barracuda is on assignment in Italy at the moment, so there's only the cat to show it off too - and I can't imagine what Bill Tanner would say to my wearing it with shorts
The James Bond Dossier | SPECTRE | Q-Branch James Bond Podcast
Positively shocking.
Turns out that Fleming did introduce the Rolex before the films after all - it's mentioned in LALD chapter 19.
LOL, good reply. Good find on the Rolex too.
You say you were unable to find any info on the Revelation suitcase. Don't know if this is much help, but I've found an advert from 1926 (too early, I know) for Revelation suitcases here.
The James Bond Dossier | SPECTRE | Q-Branch James Bond Podcast
Ohhhhhhhhh, you Americans need to learn what suspenders are. James Bond would never wear suspenders, although a Bond girl may.
You mean braces. And Bond shouldn't in my book. But Bill may have other ideas.
The James Bond Dossier | SPECTRE | Q-Branch James Bond Podcast
Perhaps this is the percursor to Miami Vice, and hence Franz Sanchez's fashion styles? Speaking of which, the closest we see Bond doing this on film is the Hemingway House sequence in LTK in which he's wearing a casual blazer, no tie, with Vans style canvas shoes, going even sockless if I remember correctly. I lived through the 80's going sockless in tennis shoes, loafers and hurrache sandals, which I can't seem to do anymore...but it was liberating and refreshing to do so.
... I'm sorry. Now I'm confused. The things looked like suspenders to me. What are braces? Again, I blame the American school curriculum.
It's just another instance of us being separated by a common language.
US : UK
suspenders = braces
garters= suspenders
MBE
LOL. I'm just a Brit trying to confuse, not to educate - see MBE's explanation.
It makes no difference whether they have the inverted Y buttoned to the waistband or the clips, they're still braces. Incidentally, if Bond does wear braces, he would never wear clips.
The James Bond Dossier | SPECTRE | Q-Branch James Bond Podcast
My opinion on braces/suspenders is that, like belt loops, they should be unnecessarry on a hand made suit.
Did Tim hire his Tux?
Edit: I think he did. I went to Turnbull and Asser in NY today. Pretty cool. But they don't list their prices on the Sea Island Cotton underwear. Which is probably the only thing I could afford right now. Oh well. I'll go back soon.
Oddly, as near as I can tell Brosnan made the fatal style faux pas of wearing a black belt with brown monk strap shoes in TWINE. You can see it when he jumps off the balcony near the end.
The first two, Terence Young films feature the slim shawl collar (no notches) and the affectation of a turned-back satin cuff to the jacket sleeves.
There are a number of changes to the general look of the tailoring for Goldfinger, but whether this is due to the influence of Guy Hamilton or the wardrobe designer, I've never been able to determine. Connery wears two dinner suits: the white jacket feature the notched lapel in the correct evening-wear style, double-breasted style on a single breasted jacket. The later black jacket commits the sartorial faux-pas of using the single-breasted collar style, usually only associated with off-the peg manufacturers who are trying to save a little by only using one collar style for their daywear and evening wear suits. At least the satin cuffs have been ditched.
For Thunderball, Young was back on board and no doubt asserting his taste with the wardrobe choices. The shawl collars are back and he's finally seen the folly of his earlier ways and also ditched the satin cuffs this time out.
If memory serves, there's no dinner suit scene in YOLT.
You won't notice a lot of difference from a casual read, but sections in the 2nd article (film suits) and 4th article (list) regarding shirts ties and underwear have all received minor revision.
I've been updating the information on a regular basis, whenever anything new crops up, so check back in this thread for updates.
The articles are excellent (especially that last installment, I liked it) however, for those looking to live the Bond lifestyle, I have an appropriate idea.
Being that Connery only wore Turnbull and Asser shirts (yeah, they really are $290 per shirt, and it took some time but now my closet is full of only TA's) I am not sure if anyone likes this idea.
Do a google search for Savile Row, and go to the Savile Row company. Under formal wear, they have what is called the "Classic shirt" or something like that nature. They are selling Savile Row's for $30!, I recommend getting some of them now, because that is a great deal, plus it is a brand of Bond. Suggestions....
The articles (and this thread) all deal with what has been used in the films or mentioned in the novels, so that people will know how to identify the original items and replicate or interpret the 'look', in their own image.
Obviously there's a demand for more economical equivalents to the established brands, so I started a companion thread here:
http://www.ajb007.co.uk/index.php?topic=24096
There hasn't been an overwhelming response to that thread - surprising when, as you point out, the original items are so costly. Your shirt suggestion is an excellent one, would you mind pasting into that thread? Hopefully it might revive some interest in the subject.
Yes, they have a premises on Savile Row, but if you read the small print you'll notice that the goods are actually dispatched from a factory in Londonderry. Also, the shirts they're selling seem to be 100% cotton - not the highly prized Sea Island variety. I also doubt the quality of construction, which is what you pay for with T&A: single needle stitching for the seams and a collar made up from separate layers (rather than fusing) giving that much-prized, gentle ruffled effect after a few washes.
The shirts are fine in themselves and will give the general look, but they're nothing particularly special that you couldn't buy in any high street retailer for the same price or cheaper. As for 'Savile Row' as a brand, that's another matter. The Row is an area of London where some of finest tailors in the world are located, it isn't any one, specific shop. Use of the name in a label strikes me as slightly spurious - especially when the clothing appears to be made elsewhere.
For Sea Island on a budget I'd recommend Charles Tyrwhitt: www.ctshirts.co.uk
I don't know about their construction (they conveniently omitted this information from their brochure) but at least the material is right.
Bill Tanner, your articles are phenomenal....does anyone have any idea what shoes Brosnan was wearing as he was driving the Vanquish on the ice in DAD?
It concerns the way that 007 should dress, right from the horses mouth and is interesting in some of the details that I don't recall being in the books:
To quote:
Wears two-button single-breasted suit in dark blue tropical worsted. Black leather belt.
White Sea Island cotton shirt, sleeveless.
Black casual shoes, square toed
Thin black knitted silk tie, no pin
Dark blue socks, cotton lisle.
No handkerchief in breast pocket
Wears Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch
The James Bond Dossier | SPECTRE | Q-Branch James Bond Podcast