Enthusiastic admirer sounds better..... Admirer of his GG's that is, nout else.
To be honest, despite my pleas on here, most of the help has come from other avenues. But all help is welcomed (hint hint).
Geff, im not entirely sure 'what is what' yet regarding tools and machinery etc. One set of plans ive been sent would enable some parts to be made with relative ease, with no machining. Basically, its stock materials that are mechanically fixed together. Some light soldering or brazing would enable them to be fished nicely and hide the joints where components are layered up.
I think the main body of the lighter is the hardest part, more so the hobnail / diamond pattern. Im tempted to make a slightly undersized lighter body, and then machine some 2mm plate brass with the pattern and braze it on. My main concern is whether gold plating would properly bond to brazed brass, if there was any carbonisation of the surface (i think i need to speak to a platers on this). I dont think i have the skill to both machine the outer patter and the inner formwork of the lighter without fecking it up.
Im contemplating buying a modelers lathe to play with, as I know the pattern can be made with a drill bit, as shown in these forums. Whilst this was done on billet brass, presumably the same process would work on thick plate?
I have a few ideas for the pen, and now have a short section of .177 (4.5mm) rifled airgun barrel. This might not get into MK1, but definitely a MK2 thats adapted.
The axminster pen kits are a good route for the threaded couplers etc (i havent found anything quite large enough in diameter though), but is worst comes to worst, some large brass bolts and nuts machined down and inserted into the correct size brass tubes would also be fine. I have my Waterman to work off for the pocket clip dims etc. I would say the SA gun and the SD replicas all use the waterman dims (albeit a scaled up body diameter)
The Ciggie case is relatively easy. Its an openable brass box, with flat oval brass tube to for the basis of the edges and base. The flip top lid is more tricky, but not impossible. A little light brazing and casting may be required to form this, but im working on some ideas from the drawings. Most notably, it will need to be adapted to suit my revised female thread cufflink.
Im lucky enough to have a jewelry maker at work who has offered to help, and my uncle makes clocks for a a hobby, so is used to machining brass. I also have a contact at a CNC metal workers who do prototyping for the aerospace industry. (friendly favours ahoy!)
I wont be able to do everything myself, but Im keen to have a go!
I also have to be careful about who i get to help out, as the plans ive been sent of the gun cannot be distributed, therefore only key bits can be sent to people. (not sure how thats gonna pan out yet!)
Any advice you guys have as prop makers would be invaluable.
i really don't know why you keep looking at past licensed replicas, you should look to the original, the links where wearable on that, plus it was totally made from brass
i really don't know why you keep looking at past licensed replicas, you should look to the original, the links where wearable on that, plus it was totally made from brass
I concur. I'd like to go as screen accurate as possible in terms of the looks. In reality, I may and up cherry picking some of the inner workings, fixings and couplings from the various generations.
For example, the top of the ciggie case where it goes into the underside of the lighter looks best on the SD guns. The fixing method on the FE gun looks less robust, and less easy to make.
All of the cufflinks ive seen (whether Original, SD or FE) all seem to have a male thread, either short fat stubby or long and thin on the SD. For me, this is not a solution. An extending male thread from the flipped lid of the ciggie case would provide a better solution, and Im not far off working out how this can be properly done. Its going to be a bit of a faff, and finding a good balance between strength and size might be tricky, but its gotta be better than FE's offering!
just for the record, my previous enquiries about what kit you have isn't me being nosy, but more just me trying to get a bit of info to help you out. if you'd come back and said you have a 3hp bridgeport mill, or a myford or warco lathe, then i'd say what you're suggesting (as far as materials go) would be possible.
if however, you've got smaller kit, or non at all, then i'd say stainless steel is well out.
s/s is a proper bugger to machine. you need power, high speeds and coolant, loads of it.
brass on the other hand is soft as **** compared, so its much easier to machine on smaller kit.
personally, i'd go with pete's advice and just use brass. bear in mind brass is not 'just brass', like all metals, theres different grades available, each with its own characteristics and uses. the stuff you buy down the model shop is very possibly not anything like the stuff i use, unless your model shop guy knows his onions about model engineering.
as for gold plating..... i f@%!ing hate it. its a right meticulous operation. however, plating onto brased or soldered brass is fine, you just need to clean it thoroughly first. i was quoted quite high once for a plating job purely because the parts were soldered and 'take ages to clean up, so its gonna be a bit pricey mate'..... utter codcrap, i went and bought my own plating kit, taught myself plating and a quick clean up later and the parts plated fine.
as for using real lighters and pens etc. please, heed my advice and don't do it.
propmakers seldom use genuine bought items for modding, it just doesn't work like that. more often than not, the modifications that need to be done CANNOT be done, due to space limitations, crap quality of material the item is made of and all sorts of other stuff. this is why there are little, but subtle differences between the golden guns components and the real items its supposedly made of.
scratch building is the only and proper way i'd do this job, and being as its been done before by many people with different results, i'm leaving it alone, hours of time in the workshop so everyone can say 'wow, yet another golden gun'. just doens't have the wow factor for me. each unto their own though, and i wish you all the best of luck with your project.
ps, please get trained properly if you haven't done machining before, i know of one guy who was 'trained' on a lathe in the morning and lost 3 fingers by the afternoon. be careful.
just for the record, my previous enquiries about what kit you have isn't me being nosy, but more just me trying to get a bit of info to help you out. if you'd come back and said you have a 3hp bridgeport mill, or a myford or warco lathe, then i'd say what you're suggesting (as far as materials go) would be possible.
if however, you've got smaller kit, or non at all, then i'd say stainless steel is well out.
s/s is a proper bugger to machine. you need power, high speeds and coolant, loads of it.
brass on the other hand is soft as **** compared, so its much easier to machine on smaller kit.
personally, i'd go with pete's advice and just use brass. bear in mind brass is not 'just brass', like all metals, theres different grades available, each with its own characteristics and uses. the stuff you buy down the model shop is very possibly not anything like the stuff i use, unless your model shop guy knows his onions about model engineering.
as for gold plating..... i f@%!ing hate it. its a right meticulous operation. however, plating onto brased or soldered brass is fine, you just need to clean it thoroughly first. i was quoted quite high once for a plating job purely because the parts were soldered and 'take ages to clean up, so its gonna be a bit pricey mate'..... utter codcrap, i went and bought my own plating kit, taught myself plating and a quick clean up later and the parts plated fine.
as for using real lighters and pens etc. please, heed my advice and don't do it.
propmakers seldom use genuine bought items for modding, it just doesn't work like that. more often than not, the modifications that need to be done CANNOT be done, due to space limitations, crap quality of material the item is made of and all sorts of other stuff. this is why there are little, but subtle differences between the golden guns components and the real items its supposedly made of.
scratch building is the only and proper way i'd do this job, and being as its been done before by many people with different results, i'm leaving it alone, hours of time in the workshop so everyone can say 'wow, yet another golden gun'. just doens't have the wow factor for me. each unto their own though, and i wish you all the best of luck with your project.
ps, please get trained properly if you haven't done machining before, i know of one guy who was 'trained' on a lathe in the morning and lost 3 fingers by the afternoon. be careful.
just for the record.....
ps, please get trained properly if you haven't done machining before, i know of one guy who was 'trained' on a lathe in the morning and lost 3 fingers by the afternoon. be careful.
MG -{
Is the person you Jeff ???
No joke beside – excellent post
cheers ian, and no, fortunately not me, i have all my digits, although don't get me wrong, I've had my close shaves.
just for the record, my previous enquiries about what kit you have isn't me being nosy, but more just me trying to get a bit of info to help you out. if you'd come back and said you have a 3hp bridgeport mill, or a myford or warco lathe, then i'd say what you're suggesting (as far as materials go) would be possible.
if however, you've got smaller kit, or non at all, then i'd say stainless steel is well out.
s/s is a proper bugger to machine. you need power, high speeds and coolant, loads of it.
brass on the other hand is soft as **** compared, so its much easier to machine on smaller kit.
personally, i'd go with pete's advice and just use brass. bear in mind brass is not 'just brass', like all metals, theres different grades available, each with its own characteristics and uses. the stuff you buy down the model shop is very possibly not anything like the stuff i use, unless your model shop guy knows his onions about model engineering.
as for gold plating..... i f@%!ing hate it. its a right meticulous operation. however, plating onto brased or soldered brass is fine, you just need to clean it thoroughly first. i was quoted quite high once for a plating job purely because the parts were soldered and 'take ages to clean up, so its gonna be a bit pricey mate'..... utter codcrap, i went and bought my own plating kit, taught myself plating and a quick clean up later and the parts plated fine.
as for using real lighters and pens etc. please, heed my advice and don't do it.
propmakers seldom use genuine bought items for modding, it just doesn't work like that. more often than not, the modifications that need to be done CANNOT be done, due to space limitations, crap quality of material the item is made of and all sorts of other stuff. this is why there are little, but subtle differences between the golden guns components and the real items its supposedly made of.
scratch building is the only and proper way i'd do this job, and being as its been done before by many people with different results, i'm leaving it alone, hours of time in the workshop so everyone can say 'wow, yet another golden gun'. just doens't have the wow factor for me. each unto their own though, and i wish you all the best of luck with your project.
ps, please get trained properly if you haven't done machining before, i know of one guy who was 'trained' on a lathe in the morning and lost 3 fingers by the afternoon. be careful.
MG -{
For sure.
I have limited experience at proper milling etc, other than what was done many moon ago in metal work classes.
I'm hoping my acquaintances with the CNC kit can do anything complex.
I only plan to use stainless for a couple of key bits where strength is required. Small brass (regardless of quality) will never be as robust as stainless.
I will seek some advice on the brass, we have a local metal dealer (some very exotic materials) who supply aeronautical and motor industry. I should be able to get some high grade stuff off them.
I wont be using either of my lighters or pens, however, I will be using certain features of them, re manufacturer (e.g. the flame wind shield of the colibri). I wanted them to replicate certain details from. So yes, scratch build, but with designs borrowed from the actual things.
in terms of stainless steel, altho very tough and
durable, it takes more to Gold Plate Stainless
steel than it does Brass, also Brass and Copper
take on the gold plating process much better,
stainless steel requires chrome plating then
gold plating, if thats a road you intend to go
down when the gun is finished,
I would say Brass would be your best choice,
also looking over your pics and posts etc
I understand whats being said across the board
about your Pen not being the Pen that was used
as the Gunbarrel, but was the basis for the design
of the golden gun barrel, yes thats true,
and again yes its true it is the pen Christopher Lee
wrote with, However The COLIBRI prototype
Golden Gun employed the exact same Pen as you
have as its barrel, so to have the pen to take
measurments and inspiration from is a good basis
to start from and same goes for the COlibri Lighters
keep up the good work! my advise at the moment is
be carefull what materials you choose at this stage
because it could prove sucess for the project further
down the line, depending on which direction you take
it in, in terms of gold plating etc, the materials have
to suit the functions i guess is what I am saying so
its key to decide before buying materials exactly what
the finished product will be able to do
Colibri only made 1 GG, this was not considered a prototype, I think you are talking about that abortion PN owns? that is a mock up not a prototype -{ stick to your modern art Mick )
well if the film makers went to Colibri with the original
intent being; for them to make the film guns and as
you say it turned out to be ''The Abortion'' Technically
That Abortion was ''COLIBRI'S'' Prototype? I doubt
that would have been the one Colibri intented for
them to use in the film surely not!
I would guess they would have made more sound
and refined versions, had they been given the Go
ahead too
it seems to be billed as a prototype according to
prop blogs and other sites, from looking at it I will
refrain from calling it a prototype, ok it was a Mock
up Danjaq....... Fair Do's Wonder if it was sold to
the American guy who bought The OO7 museum
it may turn up on display over in the states, who
knows
Mick, I can assure you it was nothing to do with Colibri, you believe what you want, I know Colibri only made 1 GG and what PN has is not it.
All of the research you have done in the past has been ltd to what you can find on the net, and your meeting with Peter Lamont, sorry but what ever information you think you know is wrong -{
Mick, I can assure you it was nothing to do with Colibri, you believe what you want, I know Colibri only made 1 GG and what PN has is not it.
All of the research you have done in the past has been ltd to what you can find on the net, and your meeting with Peter Lamont, sorry but what ever information you think you know is wrong -{
maybe he's got an email from NF? )
trust me mick, this isn't pete being a smart arse. when it comes to finding stuff i go to one certain chap on here, when i need to know anything regarding bond's firearms, i go to another chap. when it comes to the golden gun, i go to pete. the only thing i don't trust him with is a measuring tape.... (sounds a bit gay don't it).
was there, or is there a single photo or proof of
the Colibri Golden Gun thats not the mock up
owned by PN? I am not hinting at or wanting to
see it, at all, not interested, just curious if there is
actual proof of its existance, and if its still around?
just a simple yes or no? would be great, or no
doubt that is major cause for more from Statler
and Waldorf
ps, using a drill bit to make the knurled finish wont work, the bit will wander plus drill bits are ground to (i think from memory 102 degrees) and you need 90. also a drill bit doesn't come to a point, meaning the troughs of the knurl will be a flat. there are drill bits for making holes and slot drills for producing slots, and they are seperate for very good reasons.
ps, using a drill bit to make the knurled finish wont work, the bit will wander plus drill bits are ground to (i think from memory 102 degrees) and you need 90. also a drill bit doesn't come to a point, meaning the troughs of the knurl will be a flat. there are drill bits for making holes and slot drills for producing slots, and they are seperate for very good reasons.
Yup!
Ive just found a tool maker who can make a special cutting tool to machine the pattern. he cant do the machining process, but has told me a man who can, who also has a wire cutter for machining out the extending breach.
I wanted a gold Colibri molectric with the pattern on, even if it isnt the actual one used in the film. I know texas007 (kan) has one too. very cool to have, especially with my waterman pen too.
ps, using a drill bit to make the knurled finish wont work, the bit will wander plus drill bits are ground to (i think from memory 102 degrees) and you need 90. also a drill bit doesn't come to a point, meaning the troughs of the knurl will be a flat. there are drill bits for making holes and slot drills for producing slots, and they are seperate for very good reasons.
Yup!
Ive just found a tool maker who can make a special cutting tool to machine the pattern. he cant do the machining process, but has told me a man who can, who also has a wire cutter for machining out the extending breach.
I wanted a gold Colibri molectric with the pattern on, even if it isnt the actual one used in the film. I know texas007 (kan) has one too. very cool to have, especially with my waterman pen too.
ps, using a drill bit to make the knurled finish wont work, the bit will wander plus drill bits are ground to (i think from memory 102 degrees) and you need 90. also a drill bit doesn't come to a point, meaning the troughs of the knurl will be a flat. there are drill bits for making holes and slot drills for producing slots, and they are seperate for very good reasons.
Yup!
Ive just found a tool maker who can make a special cutting tool to machine the pattern. he cant do the machining process, but has told me a man who can, who also has a wire cutter for machining out the extending breach.
I wanted a gold Colibri molectric with the pattern on, even if it isnt the actual one used in the film. I know texas007 (kan) has one too. very cool to have, especially with my waterman pen too.
Hmm, not sure. tool maker man gave me a number for machining man....
Havent called him yet, but tool maker man basically said machining man could cut very complex shapes / extrusion parts from brass.
I cant be any clearer or more technical than that at this stage!! LOL.
Need to take a sketch up to the chappy and see what he thinks.
geff, ciggie lighter, would you:
A) cut the shape out of the brass bar, then machine the pattern machine the pattern then cut the shappe out of the bar?
Ive just found a tool maker who can make a special cutting tool to machine the pattern. he cant do the machining process, but has told me a man who can, who also has a wire cutter for machining out the extending breach.
I wanted a gold Colibri molectric with the pattern on, even if it isnt the actual one used in the film. I know texas007 (kan) has one too. very cool to have, especially with my waterman pen too.
Hmm, not sure. tool maker man gave me a number for machining man....
Havent called him yet, but tool maker man basically said machining man could cut very complex shapes / extrusion parts from brass.
I cant be any clearer or more technical than that at this stage!! LOL.
Need to take a sketch up to the chappy and see what he thinks.
geff, ciggie lighter, would you:
A) cut the shape out of the brass bar, then machine the pattern machine the pattern then cut the shappe out of the bar?
Comments
Hmmm, not quite stalker.
Enthusiastic admirer sounds better..... Admirer of his GG's that is, nout else.
To be honest, despite my pleas on here, most of the help has come from other avenues. But all help is welcomed (hint hint).
Geff, im not entirely sure 'what is what' yet regarding tools and machinery etc. One set of plans ive been sent would enable some parts to be made with relative ease, with no machining. Basically, its stock materials that are mechanically fixed together. Some light soldering or brazing would enable them to be fished nicely and hide the joints where components are layered up.
I think the main body of the lighter is the hardest part, more so the hobnail / diamond pattern. Im tempted to make a slightly undersized lighter body, and then machine some 2mm plate brass with the pattern and braze it on. My main concern is whether gold plating would properly bond to brazed brass, if there was any carbonisation of the surface (i think i need to speak to a platers on this). I dont think i have the skill to both machine the outer patter and the inner formwork of the lighter without fecking it up.
Im contemplating buying a modelers lathe to play with, as I know the pattern can be made with a drill bit, as shown in these forums. Whilst this was done on billet brass, presumably the same process would work on thick plate?
I have a few ideas for the pen, and now have a short section of .177 (4.5mm) rifled airgun barrel. This might not get into MK1, but definitely a MK2 thats adapted.
The axminster pen kits are a good route for the threaded couplers etc (i havent found anything quite large enough in diameter though), but is worst comes to worst, some large brass bolts and nuts machined down and inserted into the correct size brass tubes would also be fine. I have my Waterman to work off for the pocket clip dims etc. I would say the SA gun and the SD replicas all use the waterman dims (albeit a scaled up body diameter)
The Ciggie case is relatively easy. Its an openable brass box, with flat oval brass tube to for the basis of the edges and base. The flip top lid is more tricky, but not impossible. A little light brazing and casting may be required to form this, but im working on some ideas from the drawings. Most notably, it will need to be adapted to suit my revised female thread cufflink.
Im lucky enough to have a jewelry maker at work who has offered to help, and my uncle makes clocks for a a hobby, so is used to machining brass. I also have a contact at a CNC metal workers who do prototyping for the aerospace industry. (friendly favours ahoy!)
I wont be able to do everything myself, but Im keen to have a go!
I also have to be careful about who i get to help out, as the plans ive been sent of the gun cannot be distributed, therefore only key bits can be sent to people. (not sure how thats gonna pan out yet!)
Any advice you guys have as prop makers would be invaluable.
Cheers
No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!!
I concur. I'd like to go as screen accurate as possible in terms of the looks. In reality, I may and up cherry picking some of the inner workings, fixings and couplings from the various generations.
For example, the top of the ciggie case where it goes into the underside of the lighter looks best on the SD guns. The fixing method on the FE gun looks less robust, and less easy to make.
All of the cufflinks ive seen (whether Original, SD or FE) all seem to have a male thread, either short fat stubby or long and thin on the SD. For me, this is not a solution. An extending male thread from the flipped lid of the ciggie case would provide a better solution, and Im not far off working out how this can be properly done. Its going to be a bit of a faff, and finding a good balance between strength and size might be tricky, but its gotta be better than FE's offering!
No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!!
just for the record, my previous enquiries about what kit you have isn't me being nosy, but more just me trying to get a bit of info to help you out. if you'd come back and said you have a 3hp bridgeport mill, or a myford or warco lathe, then i'd say what you're suggesting (as far as materials go) would be possible.
if however, you've got smaller kit, or non at all, then i'd say stainless steel is well out.
s/s is a proper bugger to machine. you need power, high speeds and coolant, loads of it.
brass on the other hand is soft as **** compared, so its much easier to machine on smaller kit.
personally, i'd go with pete's advice and just use brass. bear in mind brass is not 'just brass', like all metals, theres different grades available, each with its own characteristics and uses. the stuff you buy down the model shop is very possibly not anything like the stuff i use, unless your model shop guy knows his onions about model engineering.
as for gold plating..... i f@%!ing hate it. its a right meticulous operation. however, plating onto brased or soldered brass is fine, you just need to clean it thoroughly first. i was quoted quite high once for a plating job purely because the parts were soldered and 'take ages to clean up, so its gonna be a bit pricey mate'..... utter codcrap, i went and bought my own plating kit, taught myself plating and a quick clean up later and the parts plated fine.
as for using real lighters and pens etc. please, heed my advice and don't do it.
propmakers seldom use genuine bought items for modding, it just doesn't work like that. more often than not, the modifications that need to be done CANNOT be done, due to space limitations, crap quality of material the item is made of and all sorts of other stuff. this is why there are little, but subtle differences between the golden guns components and the real items its supposedly made of.
scratch building is the only and proper way i'd do this job, and being as its been done before by many people with different results, i'm leaving it alone, hours of time in the workshop so everyone can say 'wow, yet another golden gun'. just doens't have the wow factor for me. each unto their own though, and i wish you all the best of luck with your project.
ps, please get trained properly if you haven't done machining before, i know of one guy who was 'trained' on a lathe in the morning and lost 3 fingers by the afternoon. be careful.
MG -{
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
Is the person you Jeff ???
No joke beside – excellent post
www.007jamesbond.dk
http://thedangermen.com/
Gold!
Dalton - the weak and weepy Bond!
You'll get a comment on this from MG for sure :v
Dalton - the weak and weepy Bond!
oh dear, its all going a little louis spence aint it?
cheers ian, and no, fortunately not me, i have all my digits, although don't get me wrong, I've had my close shaves.
MG -{
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
= pinchbeck
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
For sure.
I have limited experience at proper milling etc, other than what was done many moon ago in metal work classes.
I'm hoping my acquaintances with the CNC kit can do anything complex.
I only plan to use stainless for a couple of key bits where strength is required. Small brass (regardless of quality) will never be as robust as stainless.
I will seek some advice on the brass, we have a local metal dealer (some very exotic materials) who supply aeronautical and motor industry. I should be able to get some high grade stuff off them.
I wont be using either of my lighters or pens, however, I will be using certain features of them, re manufacturer (e.g. the flame wind shield of the colibri). I wanted them to replicate certain details from. So yes, scratch build, but with designs borrowed from the actual things.
No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!!
in terms of stainless steel, altho very tough and
durable, it takes more to Gold Plate Stainless
steel than it does Brass, also Brass and Copper
take on the gold plating process much better,
stainless steel requires chrome plating then
gold plating, if thats a road you intend to go
down when the gun is finished,
I would say Brass would be your best choice,
also looking over your pics and posts etc
I understand whats being said across the board
about your Pen not being the Pen that was used
as the Gunbarrel, but was the basis for the design
of the golden gun barrel, yes thats true,
and again yes its true it is the pen Christopher Lee
wrote with, However The COLIBRI prototype
Golden Gun employed the exact same Pen as you
have as its barrel, so to have the pen to take
measurments and inspiration from is a good basis
to start from and same goes for the COlibri Lighters
keep up the good work! my advise at the moment is
be carefull what materials you choose at this stage
because it could prove sucess for the project further
down the line, depending on which direction you take
it in, in terms of gold plating etc, the materials have
to suit the functions i guess is what I am saying so
its key to decide before buying materials exactly what
the finished product will be able to do
-{ cheers............ Michael
www.freewebs.com/scaramangasgoldengun
www.facebook.com/QuartermasterProps
intent being; for them to make the film guns and as
you say it turned out to be ''The Abortion'' Technically
That Abortion was ''COLIBRI'S'' Prototype? I doubt
that would have been the one Colibri intented for
them to use in the film
I would guess they would have made more sound
and refined versions, had they been given the Go
ahead too
it seems to be billed as a prototype according to
prop blogs and other sites, from looking at it I will
refrain from calling it a prototype, ok it was a Mock
up Danjaq....... Fair Do's Wonder if it was sold to
the American guy who bought The OO7 museum
it may turn up on display over in the states, who
knows
www.freewebs.com/scaramangasgoldengun
www.facebook.com/QuartermasterProps
All of the research you have done in the past has been ltd to what you can find on the net, and your meeting with Peter Lamont, sorry but what ever information you think you know is wrong -{
maybe he's got an email from NF?
trust me mick, this isn't pete being a smart arse. when it comes to finding stuff i go to one certain chap on here, when i need to know anything regarding bond's firearms, i go to another chap. when it comes to the golden gun, i go to pete. the only thing i don't trust him with is a measuring tape.... (sounds a bit gay don't it).
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
honest guv, its THIS big
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
speaking from experience?
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
the Colibri Golden Gun thats not the mock up
owned by PN? I am not hinting at or wanting to
see it, at all, not interested, just curious if there is
actual proof of its existance, and if its still around?
just a simple yes or no? would be great, or no
doubt that is major cause for more from Statler
and Waldorf
ok fair doo's, you guys know best -{
hap hap happy
www.freewebs.com/scaramangasgoldengun
www.facebook.com/QuartermasterProps
www.freewebs.com/scaramangasgoldengun
www.facebook.com/QuartermasterProps
Well chuffed!
No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!!
Apparently as new, fully boxed with all paperwork. mint.
No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!!
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
Yup!
Ive just found a tool maker who can make a special cutting tool to machine the pattern. he cant do the machining process, but has told me a man who can, who also has a wire cutter for machining out the extending breach.
I wanted a gold Colibri molectric with the pattern on, even if it isnt the actual one used in the film. I know texas007 (kan) has one too. very cool to have, especially with my waterman pen too.
No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!!
and a wire cutter? extended breach? you mean spark erosion?
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
Hmm, not sure. tool maker man gave me a number for machining man....
Havent called him yet, but tool maker man basically said machining man could cut very complex shapes / extrusion parts from brass.
I cant be any clearer or more technical than that at this stage!! LOL.
Need to take a sketch up to the chappy and see what he thinks.
geff, ciggie lighter, would you:
A) cut the shape out of the brass bar, then machine the pattern
No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!!
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org