Video Review- New Ties in The Turnbull & Asser James Bond Collection

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Comments

  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    edited April 7
    Matt S wrote:

    I think it's 1/8" higher in front than the standard T&A collar band. So that would make the front height 1 1/4" high.

    Thanks, not that high in the front then.
    Matt S wrote:

    You'll have to tell them you want a spread that is in between the two. And pray that they will be willing to do it! The only person I know who has the collar got it in NYC from the bespoke manager who originally designed it. That man no longer works for T&A.

    Interestingly last time I saw T&A (when they came to the city I live) I asked that they adjust my PoW collar by increasing height (particularly in front) slightly longer points etc.

    Because of a mixup they did those adjustments to my regent collar instead, the result being the below *larger* regent collar:




    BaB
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    I think it's 1/8" higher in front than the standard T&A collar band. So that would make the front height 1 1/4" high.

    Thanks, not that high in the front then.
    Matt S wrote:

    You'll have to tell them you want a spread that is in between the two. And pray that they will be willing to do it! The only person I know who has the collar got it in NYC from the bespoke manager who originally designed it. That man no longer works for T&A.

    Interestingly last time I saw T&A (when they came to the city I live) I asked that they adjust my PoW collar by increasing height (particularly in front) slightly longer points etc.

    Because of a mixup they did those adjustments to my regent collar instead, the result being the below *larger* regent collar:


    IMG1.png

    BaB

    I like that. The changes turned the Regent from a very English cutaway into a more Italian-looking one! It also goes to show how the TWINE collar is not as wide as a Regent.
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  • urhashurhash USPosts: 926MI6 Agent
    Have any of the other Bonds worn anything resembling the "TWINE" collar?
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    edited February 19
    urhash wrote:
    Have any of the other Bonds worn anything resembling the "TWINE" collar?

    The spread of the collar is very similar to the collar that Connery wears in his EON Bond films. The TWINE collar is slightly higher than Connery's collar so it has more presence, and the Stayflex in the ends gives it a different feel as well. But overall the shapes are very similar.
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  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    I like that. The changes turned the Regent from a very English cutaway into a more Italian-looking one! It also goes to show how the TWINE collar is not as wide as a Regent.

    Thanks! I should note that “my” regent has slightly more spread than the standard regent. When it was “designed” about 11 years ago I was trying to make it look more like the DAD Brioni collar(!). Now it seems I’ve finally (almost) succeeded in that regard, but now I think I prefer the PoW B-)

    BaB
  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    I also wondered whether my "new" Regent collar is taller than the TWINE collar? What do you think?

    BaB
  • The Bond VivantThe Bond Vivant SeendPosts: 1,126MI6 Agent
    Here's a controversial question. Do we think the newly-discovered "Bilbao Collar" appeared on more than just the Bilbao shirt, but on the other shirts in TWINE as well? Have a look at these pictures from TWINE, one from M's Office, one from the Scottish castle...


    Brosnan-Tie-1.jpg


    TWINE-Scotland-Tie1.png
  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    Here's a controversial question. Do we think the newly-discovered "Bilbao Collar" appeared on more than just the Bilbao shirt, but on the other shirts in TWINE as well? Have a look at these pictures from TWINE, one from M's Office, one from the Scottish castle...


    I thought it was the same? The one I’m most keen on is the one in the second part of the pre-title (M’s office etc), which maybe seems taller?

    BaB
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    edited February 20
    Here's a controversial question. Do we think the newly-discovered "Bilbao Collar" appeared on more than just the Bilbao shirt, but on the other shirts in TWINE as well? Have a look at these pictures from TWINE, one from M's Office, one from the Scottish castle...


    Brosnan-Tie-1.jpg

    TWINE-Scotland-Tie1.png

    What’s ‘newly discovered’? This is the collar that appears on all of the day shirts he wears with a tie in the film. It’s the same higher Regent/Prince of Wales hybrid collar. If it looks a little different I’d say it’s down to how the Stayflex is bended. That can make a big difference in how the collar looks.
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  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    I also wondered whether my "new" Regent collar is taller than the TWINE collar? What do you think?

    BaB

    Yes, your collar is taller. Brosnan’s TWINE collar is only slightly higher than T&A’s standard height.
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    Yes, your collar is taller. Brosnan’s TWINE collar is only slightly higher than T&A’s standard height.

    Thanks. In the scene in M’s office the collar looks higher to me than in other scenes from the back. What do you think causes this?


    BFFC2-CA7-F01-F-4-DAC-A61-F-0-F1-C2-D4-F5-D14.jpg

    BaB
  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    Also, we know from Blair’s video that Brosnan had 4 collar types made by T&A.

    Are my below guesstimate about which collars are used where correct?

    PoW collar: TND (day shirts and dinner shirt)

    Regent: possibly the famous TWINE collar for day shirts

    Classic collar: TWINE (dinner shirt)

    No 3 collar: TWINE (final act)

    BaB
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    Also, we know from Blair’s video that Brosnan had 4 collar types made by T&A.

    Are my below guesstimate about which collars are used where correct?

    PoW collar: TND (day shirts and dinner shirt)

    Regent: possibly the famous TWINE collar for day shirts

    Classic collar: TWINE (dinner shirt)

    No 3 collar: TWINE (final act)

    BaB

    The TWINE evening shirt looks like the same POW collar that's in TND. The Classic T&A collar (+1/8) is on the DAD evening shirt for sure.

    The TWINE day shirt collar design was specified on the order to be "own shape", but I suspect that the collar pattern they labelled "REG" is that collar. When they showed me the paper pattern, the collar size of 16 1/4" matched up with the 16 1/4" neck size on the TWINE order form.
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  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    Yes, your collar is taller. Brosnan’s TWINE collar is only slightly higher than T&A’s standard height.

    Thanks. In the scene in M’s office the collar looks higher to me than in other scenes from the back. What do you think causes this?


    BFFC2-CA7-F01-F-4-DAC-A61-F-0-F1-C2-D4-F5-D14.jpg

    BaB

    It looks this high in the back in a few other scenes too. The suit jackets' collars may not all fit exactly the same or be pressed the same way from suit to suit, which can result in showing more or less shirt collar.
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  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    I've asked T&A now to try to base the collar on my existing PoW pattern, but adjusting a touch (making it "larger") and also increasing the spread slightly. Should I go for more tie space as well?

    BaB
  • urhashurhash USPosts: 926MI6 Agent
    You decided to drop the effort to have them copy the collar straight off Brosnan’s pattern?
  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    edited February 21
    urhash wrote:
    You decided to drop the effort to have them copy the collar straight off Brosnan’s pattern?

    Not quite decided yet, I am still waiting for them to get back to me on that. Keeping this as an option if they are struggling to do that in a sensible manner. But of course the ideal would be that they take the pattern and change collar size from 16 1/4 to 15 3/4.

    As of now they came back and said it was the PoW collar, and based on the measurements they provided seemed to wanted to do their standard PoW.

    BaB
  • urhashurhash USPosts: 926MI6 Agent
    If the TWINE collar is the POW (or POW-variant), then that basically means we never saw Brosnan wear his Regent collar in any movie, because he never wears a wider collar than the TWINE one (except in DAD, but that’s Brioni).
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    urhash wrote:
    If the TWINE collar is the POW (or POW-variant), then that basically means we never saw Brosnan wear his Regent collar in any movie, because he never wears a wider collar than the TWINE one (except in DAD, but that’s Brioni).

    As Bond_and_beyond said above, T&A said that Brosnan's POW is 1 3/4" high with 3" points. That height does not match with what's on screen for the TWINE day collar.

    Bond_and_beyond, I suggest asking them to use their Brosnan Regent pattern, and that one is higher than the Brosnan POW. I'm fairly sure the Brosnan Regent collar is the TWINE collar. If you want to have them modify your POW pattern, ask them to raise it 1/4", but don't lengthen the points. Brosnan's points aren't any longer than your 3 1/8" POW points.
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  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    As Bond_and_beyond said above, T&A said that Brosnan's POW is 1 3/4" high with 3" points. That height does not match with what's on screen for the TWINE day collar.

    Bond_and_beyond, I suggest asking them to use their Brosnan Regent pattern, and that one is higher than the Brosnan POW. I'm fairly sure the Brosnan Regent collar is the TWINE collar. If you want to have them modify your POW pattern, ask them to raise it 1/4", but don't lengthen the points. Brosnan's points aren't any longer than your 3 1/8" POW points.

    I got the following response from T&A, so they are on it:
    In all honesty, at first glance it resembles more of a POW than a Regent to me. The regent is slightly more spread in my mind. However, we will have another look at it tomorrow, as well as looking into the Regent Brosnan wore
  • urhashurhash USPosts: 926MI6 Agent
    Thanks! Interested to see those Regent numbers
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    What they don't seem to get is that is that while the collar looks more like the POW, it is labelled REG. I have a photo of Brosnan's actual paper pattern of this collar. The photo I have, however, is not enough to determine much else from.
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  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:
    What they don't seem to get is that is that while the collar looks more like the POW, it is labelled REG. I have a photo of Brosnan's actual paper pattern of this collar. The photo I have, however, is not enough to determine much else from.

    Could you share that photo?

    BaB
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    Thanks, I might pass this on to T&A also.

    BaB
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    Thanks, I might pass this on to T&A also.

    BaB

    The Regent collar there should be the same one that's the CAD pattern in Blair's video.
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  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    The Regent collar there should be the same one that's the CAD pattern in Blair's video.

    Update from T&A:
    I can now confirm that it is a POW. No history of a regent collar Sir.

    He has also had our T&A collar.
  • Matt SMatt S Oh Cult Voodoo ShopPosts: 6,522MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    The Regent collar there should be the same one that's the CAD pattern in Blair's video.

    Update from T&A:
    I can now confirm that it is a POW. No history of a regent collar Sir.

    He has also had our T&A collar.

    Something doesn't add up. Brosnan wears more than just these two collars in the Bond films. The TWINE collar on the order form is listed as 'own shape', and it is wider than a POW collar. In the patterns I have a photo of, there is a POW collar, and a slightly wider and higher collar next to it that looks like the TWINE collar. I have a POW collar shirt of my own that I've made comparisons with.
    Visit my blog, Bond Suits
  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    Matt S wrote:

    Something doesn't add up. Brosnan wears more than just these two collars in the Bond films. The TWINE collar on the order form is listed as 'own shape', and it is wider than a POW collar. In the patterns I have a photo of, there is a POW collar, and a slightly wider and higher collar next to it that looks like the TWINE collar. I have a POW collar shirt of my own that I've made comparisons with.

    Could it simply be that they tweaked the PoW collar (ie slighly more spread etc) which in the CAD became its own collar? Ie it is a slightly taller PoW with a slightly wider spread?

    They confirmed btw that "Reg" referred to "Regular" not "Regent".

    BaB
  • Bond_and_beyondBond_and_beyond Posts: 60MI6 Agent
    And Matt, just to check, on the photo, which one is the "larger" collar you are referring to?


    Brosnan-Pattern.jpg

    BAB
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