right guys, i'm in need of some help with regards some milling.
i'm just looking into doing a job somewhere next year and part of it entales milling some fine v shaped grooves.
i know you can purchase all sorts of cutters, indexable, suitable for back and front chamfer milling etc, but these things are expensive.
so question is, has anyone here used a spot/centre drill to mill v slots, and what kind of result does it give?
i really think i'm gonna have to bite the bullet on this one and just buy a rather expensive cutter, but if anyone else has any ingenius ideas to do it cheaper, please let me know.
The only other thing I could think of would be a v cutter for a router. Would be cheap, maybe a fiver but I dont think it would give a particularly good finish, if in fact it would be up to cutting metal.
nah, router bits are made for 30k rpm plus, not 3k rpm max millers.
i think i should be ok with a LS endmill and a bit of simple calculating.
I was messing around with some stuff at the weekend and had a go milling with a centre drill, as per your suggestion. I have a lathe with a vertical slide so not ideal for that sorta thing but was actually pretty impressed with the result. Tried a 1/8 and 1/4 centre drill and did a criss cross pattern. Could have done with doing a slower pass but looked pretty good. Not entirely unlike the pattern on the GG lighter.
nah, router bits are made for 30k rpm plus, not 3k rpm max millers.
i think i should be ok with a LS endmill and a bit of simple calculating.
I was messing around with some stuff at the weekend and had a go milling with a centre drill, as per your suggestion. I have a lathe with a vertical slide so not ideal for that sorta thing but was actually pretty impressed with the result. Tried a 1/8 and 1/4 centre drill and did a criss cross pattern. Could have done with doing a slower pass but looked pretty good. Not entirely unlike the pattern on the GG lighter.
nice one, what material was you using?
as a sideline bit of advice to everyone out there;
if you find a can of enamel spray paint that says quick drying on it, don't use it, its shyte. 16 hours later and its still tacky. fecking plasti-kote.
as a sideline bit of advice to everyone out there;
if you find a can of enamel spray paint that says quick drying on it, don't use it, its shyte. 16 hours later and its still tacky. fecking plasti-kote.
as a sideline bit of advice to everyone out there;
if you find a can of enamel spray paint that says quick drying on it, don't use it, its shyte. 16 hours later and its still tacky. fecking plasti-kote.
Care to share us the brand which you were using, Plasti-Kote perhaps or Maston... ?
EDIT: my bad, did not read your post thoroughly...Plasti-Kote -{
Knowing who to trust is Everything in this business.
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
normally i get my paints made for me, or at a push i'll resort to a can of halfords (UK car maintenance retailer). but when i'm really stuck i'll resort to using some modelling spray. i've had good results with humbrol's range, and tamiya as well. but i can honestly say that although the finish is acceptable, the drying times of plasti-kote suck big time.
the plasti-kote paint itself is really thick in comparison to cellulose, the coats go on thick and fast and its too much. runs are pretty much guaranteed, and the thick paint clogs the nozzle quick and can cause spattering.
next time i'm wondering whether to use it, or wait til i get home and can dig out a can of humbrol, i'll make sure i don't rush myself. if i'd have waited, i coulda used the humbrol this morning and it'd be pretty much touch dry by now. instead i'm still waiting for this enamel plati-crap to cure, and its now 17 hours after the paint went on.
I'm the same Jeff, stick to good quality modelling paints, it brings tears to the eyes when you've spent countless hours reproducing something only for it to be ruined in 10 secs by using off the shelf crap paint.
I used to work in paint industry several years at beginning of the millenium and i have to say those ready canned enamel sprays haven't change much since then as enamel paints viscosity is quite high and manufacturers still use those universal nozzles for spray cans. We used to fill our own spray cans and mix our paints at the company
where i worked and never had problems with the drying times.
Knowing who to trust is Everything in this business.
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
just had a look at plasti-crap's website, (sad git that i am) and lo n behold, the site states the enamel spray should be 'thoroughly dry in 24hrs', but the can says 3.
i'll give it 24hrs and if its still tacky i'll file it away in the big round black file and start again.
just had a look at plasti-crap's website, (sad git that i am) and lo n behold, the site states the enamel spray should be 'thoroughly dry in 24hrs', but the can says 3.
i'll give it 24hrs and if its still tacky i'll file it away in the big round black file and start again.
And of course manufacturer appeals to the thickness of sprayed layers...
Companies change, but advertising n marketing methods stays the same
Usually those Very-Quick-Dry products are misleading with drying times and most of the ready spray cans have small text like:
final hardness after 24hours depending on ventilation, temperature of the air, relative humidity of the air and thickness of the paint film/layer.
Knowing who to trust is Everything in this business.
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
Sorry for the late reply. just some brass I had. Couple of pics. The surface of the brass bar that I used for the 1/4 centre drill already had been used for a trial on something else.
hi
could any one help me develop some items that need some electronic circuits added, i.e a contact of someone that can make up some items incorporating leds etc.
So, the Omega. Quartz = good or bad? I'm looking at a mid-size (2223.80.00) but the price spread I'm seeing online is worrisome. Which am I avoiding, and which am I looking for? Thanks in advance.
So, the Omega. Quartz = good or bad? I'm looking at a mid-size (2223.80.00) but the price spread I'm seeing online is worrisome. Which am I avoiding, and which am I looking for? Thanks in advance.
I've always preferred a Quartz movement and so I purchased the full size Quartz model (2221.80.00) on June 6, 2011 as my everyday watch, and I'm more then pleased.
I too noticed a large variance in prices on the internet but decided it was in my best interest to buy from an OMEGA dealer, went to the OMEGA web site and located an authorized dealer within a few miles of my house. List was $2200.00 jeweler sold to me for $1800.00 plus tax.
Inquired about service routine, Battery life is 2-3 years at which time watch should be sent to Omega for cleaning, replace battery and all seals. Authorized dealer handles all shipping etc., bring it to where you bought it and they send it to Omega. I was told the cost for this service is currently $75.00 and your watch will be gone for about a month.
So, the Omega. Quartz = good or bad? I'm looking at a mid-size (2223.80.00) but the price spread I'm seeing online is worrisome. Which am I avoiding, and which am I looking for? Thanks in advance.
Inquired about service routine, Battery life is 2-3 years at which time watch should be sent to Omega for cleaning, replace battery and all seals. Authorized dealer handles all shipping etc., bring it to where you bought it and they send it to Omega. I was told the cost for this service is currently $75.00 and your watch will be gone for about a month.
jesus christ! i had to wait 8 weeks and pay about £300 for mine. although its the chronometer version so i guess thats why. bit of a difference all the same though.
tbh if I had the quartz i'd take it to a local reputable horologist. if its just a battery and seal change i wouldn't bother sending it back to omega.
i'm in the process of sourcing some goodies for the workshop, namely a mini lathe and mill.
has anyone got experience with this type of baby kit? if so i'm in need of some advice from someone with some in-depth knowledge of working with these bits of kit. i'm more used to bigger stuff ya see.
so if anyone can help out, please get in touch
MG
ps, send me an email, not a pm as my little box is full (ooh er missus)
Comments
i'm just looking into doing a job somewhere next year and part of it entales milling some fine v shaped grooves.
i know you can purchase all sorts of cutters, indexable, suitable for back and front chamfer milling etc, but these things are expensive.
so question is, has anyone here used a spot/centre drill to mill v slots, and what kind of result does it give?
i really think i'm gonna have to bite the bullet on this one and just buy a rather expensive cutter, but if anyone else has any ingenius ideas to do it cheaper, please let me know.
MG -{
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
first port of call but the workpiece is too large in diameter for this to be an option. the head needs to stay vertical i'm afraid.
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
i think i should be ok with a LS endmill and a bit of simple calculating.
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
Last time I saw one which went for £10GBP on eBay.
But as stated many times before, value is as much as someone is willing/ready to pay for the item -{
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
Formerly known as Teppo
I was messing around with some stuff at the weekend and had a go milling with a centre drill, as per your suggestion. I have a lathe with a vertical slide so not ideal for that sorta thing but was actually pretty impressed with the result. Tried a 1/8 and 1/4 centre drill and did a criss cross pattern. Could have done with doing a slower pass but looked pretty good. Not entirely unlike the pattern on the GG lighter.
nice one, what material was you using?
as a sideline bit of advice to everyone out there;
if you find a can of enamel spray paint that says quick drying on it, don't use it, its shyte. 16 hours later and its still tacky. fecking plasti-kote.
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
i'M WITH YOU ON THAT ONE... 8-)
Care to share us the brand which you were using, Plasti-Kote perhaps or Maston... ?
EDIT: my bad, did not read your post thoroughly...Plasti-Kote -{
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
Formerly known as Teppo
Could be a clue there Teppo
Your edit and my post crossed, even funnier
www.justgiving.com/inMemoryOfLewisCollins
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
Andy, my mistake..didn't recognize the brand
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
Formerly known as Teppo
the plasti-kote paint itself is really thick in comparison to cellulose, the coats go on thick and fast and its too much. runs are pretty much guaranteed, and the thick paint clogs the nozzle quick and can cause spattering.
next time i'm wondering whether to use it, or wait til i get home and can dig out a can of humbrol, i'll make sure i don't rush myself. if i'd have waited, i coulda used the humbrol this morning and it'd be pretty much touch dry by now. instead i'm still waiting for this enamel plati-crap to cure, and its now 17 hours after the paint went on.
the can states 3 hours. my fecking arse.
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
www.justgiving.com/inMemoryOfLewisCollins
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
where i worked and never had problems with the drying times.
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
Formerly known as Teppo
i'll give it 24hrs and if its still tacky i'll file it away in the big round black file and start again.
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
And of course manufacturer appeals to the thickness of sprayed layers...
Companies change, but advertising n marketing methods stays the same
Usually those Very-Quick-Dry products are misleading with drying times and most of the ready spray cans have small text like:
final hardness after 24hours depending on ventilation, temperature of the air, relative humidity of the air and thickness of the paint film/layer.
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
Formerly known as Teppo
...final hardness, i assume
TIS - "The moment you think you got it figured - you're wrong"
Formerly known as Teppo
Sorry for the late reply. just some brass I had. Couple of pics. The surface of the brass bar that I used for the 1/4 centre drill already had been used for a trial on something else.
could any one help me develop some items that need some electronic circuits added, i.e a contact of someone that can make up some items incorporating leds etc.
cheers
paul
I've always preferred a Quartz movement and so I purchased the full size Quartz model (2221.80.00) on June 6, 2011 as my everyday watch, and I'm more then pleased.
I too noticed a large variance in prices on the internet but decided it was in my best interest to buy from an OMEGA dealer, went to the OMEGA web site and located an authorized dealer within a few miles of my house. List was $2200.00 jeweler sold to me for $1800.00 plus tax.
Inquired about service routine, Battery life is 2-3 years at which time watch should be sent to Omega for cleaning, replace battery and all seals. Authorized dealer handles all shipping etc., bring it to where you bought it and they send it to Omega. I was told the cost for this service is currently $75.00 and your watch will be gone for about a month.
AND here's my Watch:
jesus christ! i had to wait 8 weeks and pay about £300 for mine. although its the chronometer version so i guess thats why. bit of a difference all the same though.
tbh if I had the quartz i'd take it to a local reputable horologist. if its just a battery and seal change i wouldn't bother sending it back to omega.
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org
i'm in the process of sourcing some goodies for the workshop, namely a mini lathe and mill.
has anyone got experience with this type of baby kit? if so i'm in need of some advice from someone with some in-depth knowledge of working with these bits of kit. i'm more used to bigger stuff ya see.
so if anyone can help out, please get in touch
MG
ps, send me an email, not a pm as my little box is full (ooh er missus)
Vive le droit à la libre expression! Je suis Charlie!
www.helpforheroes.org.uk
www.cancerresearchuk.org